eBay

Thirteen 78 RPM 10" Records Lot #AKV: Records from the 1940s, 1950s and possibly the 1930s That Feature Big Band, Swing, Jazz and Other Popular Styles - Untested

Comments:

Here is a nice batch of records from the 1940s/50s and possibly the 1930s. I didn't look up release dates, so it's possible something is outside of that date range. Most of the records are good looking, but I did not clean or play test.

Disclaimer: My goal is to provide a stack of records that can all be played and enjoyed. I don't include any record in a lot if I don't think it is a winner in some sense. I don't include a record in a lot if it looks like it might be unplayable. Sometimes appearances can be deceiving though. You never know for sure how well any record will play until you actually play it. It's possible, even if unlikely, that you might find a clunker or two in this lot. The records are sold as-is with no guarantee of playability.

What Is Included: Please see the photos for song titles and other details. Artists included are listed in the Items Specifics section above. Grading by catalog numbers is shown below.

18314 E-
26763 V
3382 V, There is a sound sample video of this record in the photos section.
36226 V I couldn't get the labels clear in my photos with the light gold print against the dark red background. Its Harry Hames - Ciribiribin / Raymond Scott - Pretty Little Petticoat (from a 1945 album called "Columbia Presents Theme Songs").
36680 V+ I couldn't get the labels clear in my photos with the light gold print against the dark red background. Its Benny Goodman - Mission To Moscow / It's Always You
36729 E-
36754 E-
6037 E-
B-10573 V-, I actually washed this one, but failed to remove some of the stains. I played it fully too and the sound is good with tolerable record surface noise. Surface noise was kinda loud at the beginning of side B, probably from those remaining stains.
B-10669 E-
B-10826 V+
B-11502 E+
U578/U611 V+

Cleaning Note: Cleaning before playing is highly recommended. After all, these records have had 70 or 80 years or so to accumulate dust, dirt and other manner of soiling. It should be no surprise that most should be cleaned to get the best possible sound. The cleaning is left to the buyer in the interest of keeping prices down. Expect to see some dust, dirt, grime, spots and maybe occasional fingerprints or whatnot on the records since I didn't spend the time to clean that stuff off. Cleaning tips are described below, in case you're not familiar with record cleaning.

Visual Grading Notes For The Records:

The visual-only record gradings are listed above. My grades are provisional since true grade can't be known until a record is played. Not only that, but for the dirtier records, I have to look through the dirt to see the record condition. I did not spend the time play these records. Expect to see decent gloss (especially once cleaned) and some surface scuffs on most of these records. Occasionally you'll see some surface scratches, groove wear, edge flakes/chips, slight warps or insignificant lams that don't affect playability. I don't knowingly sell records with cracks unless insignificant, in which case it will be mentioned with the grading. You can see the condition of the labels in the photos section. These are all decent quality records based on appearance - some better than others. All of the records are sleeved. When I have used sleeves available, I use them. Otherwise I provide brand new sleeves. Sleeves, especially used ones, may show mild to moderate wear like bends, creases, writing, marks or even small tears or splits.

Play Test Notes and Tips For Best Play Results: I did not play test these records. Some will sound better than others. Expect varying levels of record surface noise (like crackle, ticks, clicks in some cases) and you'll probably not be disappointed.

Getting better results by cleaning the records before playing: Before I play most old records that look a bit dirty, I usually clean them. If lightly soiled, a damp record cleaning cloth might do the trick. But for dirtier records, washing works pretty well. It's not hard. Washing has the potential to affect labels, but doesn’t normally cause any serious harm. This is how I do it: Lay out a bath towel next to the kitchen sink and place a record on it. Add a little dish soap to warm water in the sink. Dip a soft cloth, suitable for record cleaning, in the soaped water and wring out much of the water. I use a record cleaning sponge that is designed to be safe for records. Gently rub the dampened cloth over one side of the record following the grooves in a circular motion as much as is needed to pick up dust and some fingerprints. Repeat for the other side. Rinse both sides with cool or warm (not hot) running water and place the record on a drier part of the bath towel. Use a hand towel to press the record gently from the top side to get most of the moisture off the labels and grooves. Flip the record and repeat the drying. (Don't use too much pressure when drying or you could break the record.) Let the record stand for a while in a drying rack if you have one, or securely leaning against something while allowing air flow. Sometimes extra attention is needed to remove stubborn specks that may be stuck to the surface. By the way, don't use alcohol or vinyl record cleaners on shellac 78s because those liquids can damage the records.

Shipping Notes: There will be an abundance of padding to help ensure safe travels. I'm an expert record packer, if I do say so myself! Rest assured that I know what I'm doing when it comes to packing shellac records for safe shipping. I always pack carefully, but will be extra cautious with this batch of records.

Please see the photos for more info and a closer look at condition. Use your zoom-in powers for a real close look.

A word on costs for safely shipping shellac 78 RPM records: They are fragile and easily breakable. (You know that!) If shipped in packaging that would be perfectly safe for a vinyl record, the chance of breakage is pretty good. I pack shellac 78's in an oversize box with plenty of padding. Proper packing materials cost me a bundle per package and the costs keep going up. On top of that, another pile of money is needed to buy the USPS media mail postage. Shipping costs are very real and add up to more than most people realize. It might not be apparent to you, but the amount that I ask you to pay for shipping is actually less than what it actually costs me to ship a record.

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It may be easier to find more of what you're interested in if you browse by Store Category in my Ebay Store.

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Y O U R Q U E S T I O N S I M A G I N E D & A N S W E R E D

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M y G r a d i n g M e t h o d f o r 7 8 r p m R e c o r d s :

Grades assigned to 78's shouldn't be confusing, but some confusion exists. The Goldmine Magazine grading system is commonly used for LPs and 45's, but the Vintage Jazz Mart Magazine (VJM) grading system is commonly used for 78's. Buyers accustomed to VJM grading might mistakenly interpret Goldmine grades for 78s in an unfairly negative way. VJM grades tend to give a more positive impression than corresponding Goldmine grades.

I make use of both grading systems. The reason I use both systems is because Ebay only allows Goldmine grading values for "item specifics". Since many 78 buyers expect VJM grades, I also include a VJM grade in comments along with the corresponding Goldmine grade in the Ebay item specifics. I use Goldmine grading for sleeves.

I always add descriptive comments that hopefully make the condition more clear. COMMENTS IN THE DESCRIPTION ARE A PART OF THE GRADE. Buyers should be able to make informed decisions based on the letter grade, comments, photos and sound samples (if provided).

THE GRADE LISTED IN THE "ITEM SPECIFICS" SECTION IS THE GOLDMINE/EBAY GRADE. THE VJM GRADE IS SHOWN IN DESCRIPTION AND CONDITION NOTES ONLY.

Record grading is heavily reliant on physical appearance, but also takes the sound of the record into consideration. That is why I play-test all 78s before assigning a final grade. (If no play-test was done, then the visual-only grade should be considered provisional, not final.) The play-test can slightly raise or lower the grade derived by visual inspection. For instance, a record might look E- but sound E+ and end up graded E. Some level of general background record surface noise is expected with 78s even when surfaces look really good. General background record surface noise only lowers a grade if it seems excessive for the visual condition. I always comment on the level of background surface noise heard during my play tests. Record label condition is also noted and can, but doesn't necessarily, affect grade.

The VJM record grading System vs. The Goldmine record grading system (This is my interpretation / adaptation of the guidelines. The attempt at mapping VJM grades to Goldmine grades is my own and is probably not perfect.)

N (VJM) vs. M (Goldmine). New and unplayed (rarely used since it is next to impossible to assert "unplayed" for unsealed records).

N- (VJM) vs. NM or M- (Goldmine). Looks very close to perfect, but may have been played. Signs of wear or damage are negligible. Any extremely small imperfections should be noted.

E+ (VJM) vs. EX (Goldmine). Looks and plays extremely well with only light signs of handling and light wear. There may be very light, superficial scuffs / marks. Record surface noise is typically negligible but may be reasonably mild if noted.

E (VJM) vs. VG+ (Goldmine). Glossy with mostly insignificant signs of wear like light surface scuffs or small blemishes whose effect on play is minimal. Small blemishes, such as a tiny shellac pimple, that might be heard for a few revolutions could exist but usually will be noted.

E- (VJM) vs. VG (Goldmine). E- represents a higher end average grade for a 78. Retains some shine but may have a more significant covering of light surface scuffs and a few light scratches. Record surface noise is more noticeable but the record plays fine and the music can be enjoyed.

V+ (VJM) vs. VG- (Goldmine). V+ represents a lower end average grade for a 78. Scuffs, light scratches and general use has dulled the finish somewhat. Wear is moderate to mildly heavy. Distortion and distractions while playing are not overwhelming. Surface noise is heard but the music is not buried by it. Still, no skips or repeats during play.

V (VJM) vs. G+ (Goldmine). Moderately heavy wear, but still very playable. Surface noise and scratches are more audible, possibly competing with the music levels, but not overtaking them.

V- (VJM) vs. G (Goldmine). Quite playable still, but distortion and heavy greying may be evident especially in louder passages. Surface noise and scratches may be quite loud, competing with the music for attention, but the music can still be heard well enough to be enjoyed. The listener may be required to tolerate heavier surface noise.

G+, G-, G (VJM) vs. G- (Goldmine). Different degrees of a grade for records with thoroughly dulled surfaces and probably lots of scuffs and scratches. Can still be played without skips or sticks. The music might be nearly buried in surface noise but can certainly be heard.

Grades of F and P are reserved for records that are in very, very bad shape that play with more serious issues. I will almost never bother to offer records with F or P grades for sale. With rare exceptions, nobody wants them.

I m p o r t T a x e s / F e e s F o r I n t e r n a t i o n a l B u y e r s

For items to be delivered outside of the USA, buyers should be aware that any customs fees / taxes that are required by your government are your responsibility and are not covered by the cost of the item or the shipping charges.

S h i p m e n t S a f e t y

I promise to pack your item securely, no matter what it is. Everything I ship gets packed well, so don't worry about a thing.

If appropriate I will add insurance coverage. Sometimes I will add signature tracking (USA) when your item is shipped. Signature tracking ensures that the postal service doesn't leave your valuable item unattended on your doorstep out in the sun or rain - it has to be handed over face to face. If you order something rare and/or worth a bit, be prepared to have to accept delivery in person.

W h a t a b o u t c o m b i n e d s h i p p i n g f o r m u l t i p l e i t e m s ?

When multiple items are shipped together, I can almost always give you a better deal on the shipping cost compared to the individual shipping costs. I promise to give you the best rate possible based on the items purchased and the shipping method required.

For "Buy It Now" items (most of what I offer), simply add each item that you want to your shopping cart. When ready to commit to buying, request a total from me from your cart and I'll send an invoice as soon as I can. Since I'm not a computer and I do other things like sleep and take the dogs for walks, you might not receive an immediate response, but I will get back to you as soon as possible. If you decide to pay for items you want individually instead of requesting a total from the shopping cart, I will promptly send back whatever money I can for a shipping discount.

Some items are not compatible for combined shipping.
Combining shipping might require changing the shipping method or increase packaging materials expense.
A few items that I offer are not eligible for combined shipping.
Of course it is ok to ask about combined shipping costs up front. You have to tell me exactly what you intend to buy and where it will be shipped. I can't always give an exact cost, but I can at least give you an estimate.
I reserve the right to limit the number or total value of items that I'm willing to send in a single package.
For international sales I use ebay's international shipping program. Combined shipping depends on the ebay shipping program rules in place at the time of shipment. It is possible that no combined shipping discount is available for international orders.

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