Universal Genève Polerouter Automatic, 18k Rose Gold, Cal. 218-9

Here’s a Genta-designed Polerouter you don’t see every day. It’s the time-only version in solid 18k rose gold, with a super clean dial: no date and no chapter ring. Gérald Genta drew the Polerouter before going on to create the Royal Oak and Nautilus, and it’s still one of the coolest watches of the ’60s. Check the photos for the full picture.

Dial and hands: Golden sunburst dial with applied gold markers and the “U” logo at 12. The printing is crisp, and the gold baton hands are perfect.

Case: Solid 18k rose gold, about 33mm, never polished. The lugs are sharp and the hallmarks deep. The case was made by Wenger, a well-known case maker (key mark n. 1 on the case back).

Case back: Snap-on, signed with the Universal shield inside, with clear 18K 0.750 and Swiss assay hallmarks. There’s no reference number, which is normal for some gold Universal cases of the period.

Crystal and crown: Mineral crystal in very good shape. The original signed rose gold crown works perfectly.

Movement: Universal’s famous micro-rotor automatic, caliber 218-9 with 28 jewels. The small rotor sits inside the movement, which keeps the watch nice and slim. It’s running great.

Strap: Italian brown alligator-pattern leather with a gold-tone pin buckle.

Accessories: Watch only.

A fully working, ready-to-wear gold Polerouter that stands out from the usual ones.