Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 168631-3001 – 39mm Lucent Steel™, Silver Sector Dial, Automatic Cal. L.U.C 96.09-L – Full Set (B&P)

Item Description

Some watches are built to a specification. This one was built to a standard — and that standard has a name.

The Qualité Fleurier certification was created in 2001 by four independent Swiss manufacturers — Chopard, Bovet, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Vaucher Manufacture — as a response to the limitations of existing chronometer certifications. Where COSC tests the movement alone in a laboratory, Qualité Fleurier certifies the entire cased-up watch, and it does so with a battery of tests that go far beyond timekeeping: shock resistance, magnetic resistance, temperature and humidity cycling, and the aesthetic finishing of every visible component. It is, by common consensus, the most demanding certification in Swiss watchmaking.

The reference 168631-3001, launched in 2024, is not just another Qualité Fleurier watch. It is the first watch to receive this certification since Chopard became the sole custodian of the Fleurier Quality Foundation in 2022. It is also the first in the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier family to be crafted in Lucent Steel™ — Chopard’s proprietary alloy made with a recycling rate of at least 80%, treated to be harder and brighter than conventional stainless steel.

The Dial: A Sector Dial, Reimagined

The silver-toned dial is a monochrome sector-type design, a direct reference to the very first L.U.C Qualité Fleurier watch from 2005. Two concentric circles, separated by fine radial lines, distinguish the hour and minute displays — a layout that is both classical and highly legible. The centre carries a sunburst satin-brushed finish, while the chapter ring is circular satin-finished, and the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock is finished with a delicate snailed pattern. The hands are slender and faceted, and there is no date window — a deliberate choice that preserves the purity of the sector composition.

The Case: 8.92mm of Restraint

The 39mm case measures just 8.92mm in thickness — a proportion that slips under a cuff with the ease of a true classical dress watch, yet retains a quiet, substantial presence on the wrist. The lugs are welded, a construction detail that traces directly back to the 2005 original, and the crown and lugs have been subtly resized for this iteration to optimise comfort and balance. Water resistance is rated to 30 metres. The watch is presented on a brown leather strap with a pin buckle.

The Movement: Calibre L.U.C 96.09-L

Inside beats the Calibre L.U.C 96.09-L, an automatic movement that measures just 3.3mm in thickness yet houses a 22K gold micro-rotor and two coaxial barrels (Chopard Twin Technology) delivering a 65-hour power reserve. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and contains 29 jewels. The movement is chronometer-certified and carries the Qualité Fleurier label, meaning its finishing has been independently inspected and approved. Through the sapphire caseback, the architecture and hand-finishing are visible in full.

Condition and Set

This example is in Very Good condition, showing only light signs of careful use. It comes as a complete full set (B&P) with its original box, papers, and warranty card dated 2026.