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FURSKIN PROCESSING
HARRY KAPLAN
M.Sc. (South Africa), M.A. (Columbia), F.R.I.C.
PERGAMON PRESS
CONTENTS
PREFACE
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
DEFINITIONS
1 HISTORY
2 THE RAW MATERIAL
Animal fibres
Keratin
The representation of keratin chain
Chemistry of keratin
Collagen
Pigmentation
Quality
Leather properties
Singe and shedding
Seasonal changes
3 FURSKIN TYPES (A dictionary of furskins)
4 DRESSING
Raw furskins
Soaking
Fleshing
Pickling:
Acid, alum
Formaldehyde
Chrome
Fermentation or meal dressing
Other dressings
Oiling
5 DYEING
Dyeing methods
Oxidizing agents
Killing
Reducing Reducing killings
Mordanting
Mordanting with ferrous salts
Mordanting with dichromate
Mordanting with copper
Dyeing or colouring
Vegetable dyes
Mineral dyes
Oxidation dyes
Ursatins
Aniline black
Dermatitis
High-temperature dyes
Top dyeing
6 BLEACHING
Catalytic bleaching
(1) Killing
(2) Mordanting
(3) Bleaching
(4) After-treatments
pH range for various stages in furskin processing
7 FINISHING
Drumming
Stretching
Removal of fur and hair
Ironing
Beating, carding, brushing and combing
Glazing
Grooving
Fur-garment ceaning
8 SHEEPSKIN PROCESSING
APPENDIX Identification of oxidation dyes
GENERAL INDEX
FURSKIN INDEX