Specifications:
Unit Type: Alternator
Part Type: UNIT
Voltage: 12
Rotation: CW
Amperage: 140
Clock: 2
Pulley Class: S6
Regulator: ER
Fan Type: IF
Brief: DODGE NITRO 3.7L 2010-11
JEEP LIBERTY 3.7L 2010-12
6-GROOVE PULLEY 57mm OD
Part Numbers:
ARROWHEAD: AND0608
CHRYSLER :05149275AA, 5149275AA
DENSO: 421000-0780
J & N: 400-52421R
LESTER: 11504
Fitment:
DODGE Auto and Light Truck NITRO 2010 3.7L(226) V6
DODGE Auto and Light Truck NITRO 2011 3.7L(226) V6
JEEP Auto and Light Truck LIBERTY 2010 3.7L(226) V6
JEEP Auto and Light Truck LIBERTY 2011 3.7L(226) V6
JEEP Auto and Light Truck LIBERTY 2012 3.7L(226) V6
Features:
1. Easy to operate
2. Produced by the sophisticated technology
3. It is the combination of elegance and good use, firmly and securely, guaranteeing the safety of your car
4. Made of high quality material, durable and reliable in use
5. Brand new and high quality
6. An important car part
1 Year Warranty:
This item have 1-year warranty.
In the event the item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part by free.
We only warranty cost of item parts. Any installation or other fees are non-refundable.
Note: Any modifying the item of any kind without contacting us will void any and all warranty coverage for this item.
Please contact us before modifying the part so that we have the opportunity to correct the situation.
You can contact us by ebay message to get the full text of the written warranty.
FAQ:
How to Test Your Car Alternator for Power
When a car battery isn't providing enough power to start a car, people often assume that the battery is bad.
Before buying an expensive new battery you may not need, check the alternator first to see whether it is providing proper power.
How to Test an Alternator for Overcharging
The alternator is vital part of your car or truck's electrical system. When the vehicle is running,
the alternator provides a constant charge to the battery, as well as to other accessories.
Without the alternator, the battery will eventually discharge.
Ticking in the Alternator
An alternator is responsible for supplying an automobile with electrical power and charging the battery.
A ticking sound is often an indication that the alternator is about to fail.
The mileage of the generator
Alternators provide essential electricity to power all the electrical devices in your car and charge your car's battery.
Modern alternators are maintenance-free and operate without failure for more than 120,000 miles.
What tools are needed to change an alternator?
A set of sockets or spanners, and a lever to hold pressure on it to keep the belt tight when installing the new one.
How can I be sure that the alternator is the problem with my car?
If you aren't sure how to diagnose this problem yourself, you can take your car to the shop and have them check your alternator (even if you do the repairs yourself).
What do I do if my alternator fails?
Start out by replacing it. You might also want to test your battery to see if it still has juice since the alternator, which is supposed to charge it, failed.
Also buy a new wiring harness to make sure maximum power is going throughout your car.
Do I have to change my battery?
If your alternator is broken, it may have drained your battery, but that doesn't necessarily mean the battery is bad. If it's been completely drained repeatedly,
however, it may need to be replaced. Pull the battery from the car and take it to your nearest auto parts store to be tested -
they can determine if the battery can still hold a charge.
How do I check my voltage on my new alternator?
Your battery is supposed to be at about 12 to 14 volts, if your alternator works that is where it will sit, maybe a little higher.
You can plug a sensor onto the alternator and ground it off away from battery, then read it.
Why is my alternator making knocking sounds?
The inside of the alternator spins along with the pulley. Knocking sounds may mean there's something broken inside the alternator that's
clicking as it's struck by the spinning assembly. You should have your alternator tested and it may need to be replaced.
TIPS
1. Using a multi-meter, measure the voltage across the battery posts with the engine off. It should be 12 or 12.5 volts. If it is less than 12 volts, then the battery needs to be charged, something is draining the battery or the battery cannot hold a charge and needs to be replaced.
2. If the battery voltage is around 12 volts, then start the engine and again measure the voltage across the battery posts. It should have increased to 13 or 14 volts if the alternator is working and charging the battery.
3. If the battery voltage did not increase with the engine running, then verify the alternator and battery have good electrical connections. Make sure the battery cable terminals are tight and free from corrosion. Look for loose connectors or frayed cables. Use the multi-meter or a test light to verify the body of the alternator is grounded (zero resistance between the alternator and negative battery post).
4. If the battery voltage is well above 14 volts with the engine running, then the alternator could be producing too much current and overcharging the battery. Maybe the voltage regulator (internal to some modern alternators) is bad. Or the battery is weak and a vehicle computer has temporarily raised the voltage limit. It might still also be bad connections or loose wiring. Some vehicle lights being brighter than others can be a symptom of this type of problem, because the alternator produces more energy to overcome the resistance of a bad wire or connection.
5. The condition of the alternator belt is the next thing to check. Of course make sure the belt is not broken. Also look for a belt that is loose and slipping. It would probably be making noise.
6. If in step 2 the voltage across the battery terminals was 13 to 14 volts with the engine running, then the alternator is properly charging the battery. That is good news, but there is another alternator electrical problem to check for. I know from personal experience with a Ford 5.0L. that sometimes an alternator can charge fine when the engine is running but drain the battery when the engine is off. It probably has something to do with the rectifier diodes in the alternator not properly blocking current from draining away from the battery. This problem may be intermittent. It certainly was on my Ford 5.0. Disconnect all the electrical connections from the alternator when the car is put away for the night. If the battery never goes dead with the alternator disconnected but goes dead when the alternator is hooked up, then that might point to an alternator diode problem. RockAuto sells replacement diodes for some alternators. The diodes are buried so deep inside many modern alternators that replacing the entire alternator is often the most practical option.
7. If the battery goes dead when the car sits (engine off) with the alternator electrical connections disconnected, then something else is draining the battery. Check first for the most obvious battery drains such as any lights left on (headlights, trunk light, ashtray light, etc.). After that it gets harder to track down the problem especially on modern cars. Newer cars have systems that are designed to stay on for various amounts of time after the engine is switched off. In the next newsletter, I will offer some tips on tracking down specific circuits that are draining a battery.
8. Finally, there are the mechanical alternator problems. Unusual screeching or grinding sounds might come from a bad bearing in an alternator. However, the noise might also be coming from a loose belt, misaligned pulleys or worn out belt tensioner. Use an automotive stethoscope to verify where the noise is coming from. Avoid damaging new alternator bearings by making sure the belt pulleys are aligned, the belt tensioners are good, the belt is not over tightened, the alternator mounting bracket is not cracked or that there is not some other mechanical problem.
