Features:
- Direct Replacement: Self exciting Alternator for 1 Wire Self Exciting Street Rod 305 350 BBC SBC. Direct drop-in piece of equipment that is easy to install and Installs the same as a factory unit
- OEM Alternator: Rugged and stable car alternator, matched against OE originals for performance. Replace OEM Number- 7127-SE105C, ADR0335-C, 1-2400-11DR-2, 7127-SECN-100A, 240-203-3DC, 400-12395
- Sturdy and Durable: 1 Wire alternator Key components are greased for noise, vibration, exposure and voltage stability to help with long term reliability and durability in harsh conditions
- Advanced Alternator: Chrome Alternator offers plenty of capability with a massive power output of 100 amperes at 12 volts, To overcome overheating, the alternator features an external fan that runs efficiently for cooling, Adding even more benefits is the internal regulator, which can bring higher efficiency in the charging system
- New Alternator: It is durable and runs smoothly and efficiently, no matter what conditions you live in. Whether hot, cold, rainy or snowy, alternators are powerful and provide plenty of power. This high output alternators are the ideal choice for reliability
Specifications :
- Part Type: UNIT
- Voltage: 12
- Rotation: CW
- Pulley Type:V1
- Amperage: 110
- Clock: 3
- Regulator: IR
- Fan Type: EF
- Brief: DELCO 10SI SELF-EXCITING
- ARROWHEAD: ADR0335-C
- LESTER: 7127-SE105C
- WAI: 1-2400-11DR-2A, 7127-SECN-100A
Fitment:
- Bobcat (1976-1997)
- Buick (1973-1985)
- Case (1973-1976)
- Caterpillar Ag. & Ind. (1983-1986)
- Chevrolet (1973-1989)
- GMC (1973-1989)
- Jeep (1980-1982)
- Miller Electric (1992-1992)
- Oldsmobile (1968-1984)
- Pontiac (1973-1985)
Signs of a worn alternator
Alternators usually do not require much attention unless they are worn out. Most of them last between 7 to 10 years in optimum conditions. However, there are several ways to tell if your alternator is exhausted.
- Battery needing a constant boost.If you constantly need to boost your battery, it could be the sign of your alternator needing replacement as it fails to recharge the battery.
- Difficult to Start.If your car stalls, there can be various causes, but a bad alternator could be one of them. If your vehicle can't get the electricity from your alternator, it cannot run so it stalls.
- Dim lights.The most common cause of dim lights from your dashboard is due to a faulty alternator.
- Delaying Electrical Accessories.If your electrical accessories are moving slower, then it can be a sign that your alternator is bad.
Part Number
Lester: 7127-SE105C
Arrowhead: ADR0335-C
J & N Automotive: 400-12395
Romaine Electric: 7127NSE-100A-C, 7127NSE-120A-C
Fit for
1973-1974 for Apollo
1975 1977-1982 for Century
1977-1982 for Electra
1978-1979 for Estate Wagon
1977-1983 for LeSabre
1975-1980 1982-1983 for Regal
1980 for Riviera
1975-1982 for Skylark
1970 1973-1975 1981 for Chevrolet for Bel Air
1973-1974 for Chevrolet for Blazer
1975-1982 for Chevrolet for C10
1973-1974 for Chevrolet for C10 Pickup
1973-1980 1982-1983 for Chevrolet for C10 Suburban
1975-1982 for Chevrolet for C20
1973-1974 for Chevrolet for C20 Pickup
1973-1984 1986 for Chevrolet for C20 Suburban
1975-1982 for Chevrolet for C30
1973-1983 for Chevrolet for Malibu
1973-1977 1979-1983 for Chevrolet for Monte Carlo
1975 1978-1980 for Chevrolet for Monza
1973-1979 for Chevrolet for Nova
1975 1977-1978 for Chevrolet for P10
1975-1977 1979 1981 1984 for Chevrolet for P20
1973-1974 for Chevrolet for P20 Van
1976-1977 1979-1985 for Chevrolet for P30
1973-1974 for Chevrolet for P30 Van
Package Include
1 * Alternator
How to Replace the Alternator
Disconnect the battery. Find the right socket to loosen the bolt that keeps the cable on the negative terminal tight. It’s the terminal of the battery with a visible (-) sign. Once it’s loose, slide the cable off the terminal to disconnect the battery. Never work in the engine bay of a vehicle without first disconnecting the battery for safety.
Remove the main power cable from the alternator. The main power cable will be the thick cable attached to the alternator that runs from the battery. Depending on how much space you have in your specific vehicle, you may be able to use a ratchet, but in some, you may only be able to fit an open-ended wrench. Unscrew the bolt holding it in place and pull it from where it’s connected.
Release the safety clip connecting the wiring harness. The only other wiring heading into the alternator is the control harness. Use your finger or a flat head screwdriver to release the clip holding the harness together, then slide it apart.
Relieve tension on the belt with the auto-tensioner (if equipped). Some vehicles use the alternator itself to apply tension to the serpentine or accessory belt, but others use an auto tensioner pulley. Insert the square drive from a breaker bar into the hole in the auto-tensioner pulley and apply pressure in a clockwise direction to relieve tension on the belt.
Loosen the bolts on the alternator if there is no auto-tensioner. In cars without an auto-tensioner pulley, you can relieve the tension on the belt simply by loosening the two bolts that secure the alternator to the engine. These will often require a 14mm or 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) socket, though you may need to try others.
Inspect the serpentine belt for damage. Look for signs of glossing or glazing (shinier portions) on the edges and underside of the belt. Inspect both the top and underside for signs of cracking as well.If you find any of those issues, you’ll need to replace it.
Remove the alternator from the engine bay. With the belt pulled off of the alternator pulley and the wires disconnected, the alternator should come out freely.
Compare the new alternator to the old one. Before installing the new alternator, set it down on a table next to the old one you just removed. Make sure the mounting holes and wire connectors are in the same place and that the two parts are the same size.
Slide the new alternator into place. You might have to wiggle the alternator around to squeeze it back into place in a crowded engine bay. Be sure to hold loose wires or the serpentine belt out of the way as you get it into place.
Insert the mounting bolts. Slide the mounting bolts through the alternator and into the mounting bracket. Tighten them by hand until they’re snug. In cars with an auto-tensioner pulley, you can completely tighten the bolts at this point, otherwise keep the bolts loose.
Run the belt over the new alternator pulley. Either install the new belt or run the old belt back through all of the appropriate pulleys. If you aren’t sure how to properly route the belt, look for a diagram on the body of the car inside the engine bay to guide you. The belt will need to go around any accessories it is supposed to power in your specific vehicle.
Tighten the bolts and the belt. With tension on the belt applied via the alternator and pry bar, use the appropriate socket and a ratchet to tighten the two mounting bolts up the rest of the way. This will allow the alternator to keep the tension on the belt.
Connect the power cable and monitor harness. Reconnect the wire harness and insert the bolt that secures the main power cable to the alternator in the same order you removed them. They should install exactly as they were in the old alternator.
Reconnect the battery. With the new alternator in place, all you have left to do is reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Make sure you tighten it firmly so it can’t shake loose while driving.
