For a proposed build you are now admiring one of my original W&G type AN-J-3 jackets and model for this proposed build. A combination type jacket designed somewhere in between a WW-2 era USN and USAA flight jacket. Available here in REGULAR sizes 36 through 48 to suit. Let me tell you what I know about this particular model jacket and what you might expect with one of my proposed jacket builds.
More specifically, the AN-J-3 is generally recognized as the leather collar or civilian version of a WW-2 era USN type flight jacket. This W&G design is one of the three different versions of the AN-J-3 model jackets I reproduce. In this case, patterned using W&G's many WW-2 USN mil spec flight jacket contracts.
Notably, like all model AN-J-3 jackets, they have never been seen with a true U.S. Government mil spec issue type label. However this jacket has been known to have showed up in WW-2 era related photographs. Those original surviving jackets more often than not are found non labeled and exactly as seen with my two original AN-J-3 jackets shown in the provided images. Perhaps initially produced in limited quantities as test jackets for the military but never adopted. Either that or assembled using spare materials that were left over from the WW-2 jacket production. Then released into the private sector post war. In any event, those surviving original AN-J-3 jackets that used this W&G type design are generally seen non labeled. The exception being, from time to time a few have been seen with a post War civilian type point of sale type label. Prompting me to attach my SHEELEY BROS. labels for my version.
Priced using a seal brown goat hide. For other hide color options I have three different types of goat hide available at this price point. To include a super grainy type hide as seen in the last of the provided images. To include a like seal brown hide that is is slightly less grainy or a heavier glossy chocolate brown that will require much more break in time.
Please note that more hide options are available. This jacket can be done using horse hide for an additional $250.00. Either that or for an additional $200.00 done with a tan or russet colored base coat that is over dyed and will wear to create a great vintage look. In addition I can really get creative and do a distressed version using an over dye type finish. Best to ask and I can send you pix or examples of exactly what I can do.
As another option I can do a hybrid of this same jacket by using the back panel design W&G utilized on their final War era mil spec jacket contract. That up graded back panel provides an advantage over the earlier model by improving mobility. Among other modifications, accomplished by moving the side seam closer to the under arm. This type of back panel done by W&G was only seen used on their horse hide model flight jacket. Moreover, I do a USN W&G flight jacket that came equipped with that hybrid type back panel. That particular jacket can be seen with one of my listings with eBay # 115165026070.
All hides vary from 1.0 to 1.2 mm thickness in both horse & goat hide. The exception being the chocolate colored goathide I have available.That chocolate colored hide is several paper thicknesses heavier than anything else I offer.
The lining can be done using rayon or cotton. Exactly as seen done within the two original jackets within the descriptive images, it would be correct to use either rayon or cotton lining for your build. However, the lining can be upgraded using a cotton backed rayon for some added warmth.
Note that this model W&G AN-J-3 jacket's lining design is much more simple than found on a true USN type flight jacket. Although made to accommodate an action back panel, the lining on this W&G type AN-J-3 was never pleated as done with true USN flight jackets.
Your proposed jacket is priced to come with an original M-43 Talon and exactly like that seen in the descriptive images. However, either a modern M-39 Talon or M-43 reproduction zip assembly can be substituted for a savings.
The thread color is optional. For a traditional color I would propose seal brown. For for a more contrasting color use olive drab..
Most notably within my personal collection I have every size WW-2 era W&G jacket (in a combination of their M-422, M-422A and AN) that were made. Those original jackets of mine vary from size 36 through size 48. Because I have a permanent reference for all available size eliminates any guess work out of exactly how these WW-2 era W&G jackets were originally made. Furthermore I found through experience (my many years of doing restoration work) that for any given state size this same W&G flight jacket pattern is among the most generously proportioned jackets from among all the WW-2 era jacket makes.
All of my proposed jackets are built using a correct vintage Reece 101 Keyhole Buttonhole machine. Exactly like originally used by USN jacket makers to create their pocket flaps. Most notably, I am one of the few jacket
reproduction manufacturers capable of offering this service. As I have restored
one of those same keyhole button hole machines used back in the day to perfection.
There is a waiting period for this build. Please see my other jacket options available on my sales page. To include two other options using the Monarch pattern for this AN-J-3 model jacket generally done in horse hide. Those builds are seen with eBay item # 11383400135 and #113834001395..
If interested please contact me David Sheeley at your earliest convenience to discuss your build.