Application:

• Fits Dodge Durango 2011-2023
• Fits Jeep Grand Cherokee 2011-2021
• Fits Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2 2022

Description:

• Position: Front
• Bolt Pattern: 5x5/ 5X127
• Spline Quantity: 32
• Wheel Stud Size: 14x1.5
• Wheel Lugs: 5-Bolt
• Flange Style: 3-Bolt Triangle
• ABS Type: Encoder
• Drive Type: 4WD/ AWD/ RWD
• Replaces dealer part numbers: 513324, WE60581, HA590419, BR930907, BHA53833, BHA54142, BHA65749, MB25304, WA513324, AX0038, 1411-480975, 720-3110,  52124767AE, 52124767AB, 52124767AC, 52124767AD, 713324

Installation:

Replacing a car wheel bearing typically involves several steps and requires some mechanical knowledge and tools. Here's a general overview of the process:

• Park your vehicle on a flat surface.

Before you begin, park your vehicle on a level surface. Put the vehicle in park (or, for manuals, 1st, reverse, or neutral) and be sure to put the parking brake up.

• Use wheel chocks to secure wheels whose bearings you aren't replacing.

For added stability, it can be smart to use sturdy chocks to hold your vehicle's wheels in place.

• Loosen the lug nuts and lift the wheel using a jack.

For proper access to the internal components of the wheel whose bearings you're replacing, you'll need to elevate the wheel. Before you lift the wheel, however, you may want to slightly loosen the lug nuts with a tire iron, as breaking their initial resistance is harder without the ground holding the wheel steady. After this, carefully lift your wheel.
To prevent dangerous slippage, make sure that the vehicle is securely seated on the jack and that the jack is flush with the ground before attempting to lift the wheel. It's also important to make sure the jack touches the vehicle on a sturdy, metal piece of the undercarriage, rather than on fragile plastic molding, as the weight of the vehicle can damage the latter.
Most vehicles have jack points where the frame has extra support to lift the vehicle. It's best to check the owners manual to learn the best place to position your jack.

• Unscrew the lug nuts and remove the wheel.

The lug nuts, which you should have already loosened, should come off easily. Remove these and put them in a safe place where you won't lose them. Next, remove the wheel itself.

• Remove the brake caliper.

Using a socket and a ratchet, remove the caliper's bolts. Then, remove the caliper itself using a screwdriver.
When removing the caliper, be careful not to let it dangle freely, as this can damage the brake hose. Instead, hook it on a secure part of the undercarriage or use a short length of string to tie it in place. A bungee cord or a bent wire hanger are two additional ways to secure the caliper.

• Remove the dust cover, cotter pin, and castle nut.

In the center of the vehicle's exposed rotor should be a small metal or plastic cap called the dust cover which protects the components holding the rotor in place. Since you'll need to remove the rotor, the cap and the components it protects will have to go. Usually, the dust cover can be removed by gripping it with calipers and tapping the calipers with a hammer. Inside, you'll find the castle nut, usually secured with a cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin with pliers or wire cutters, then unscrew the castle nut and remove it (and its washer).

• Remove the rotor.

Place your thumb securely on the peg in the middle of the rotor assembly. Firmly (but somewhat gently) bump the rotor itself with the palm of your other hand. The wheel's outer bearing should loosen or fall out. Remove the outer bearing. Finally, remove the rotor itself.

• Unscrew the hub bolts and remove the old hub.

The wheel bearing is inside the hub, which is usually held in place with several bolts that screw in from behind. These bolts can be tricky to reach because they're tucked away in the undercarriage, so you may want to use a skinny socket wrench and/or a breaker bar to loosen and remove them. When you've removed the bolts, take the hub off of the axle.

Note that if you've purchased a new hub assembly, at this point, you can install the new hub and put the wheel back together and you'll be finished. To install a new set of bearings inside the hub, read on.

• Disassemble the hub assembly.

To gain access to the bearings, you'll need to take apart the hub. You'll probably need to use a wrench (and/or a hammer) to remove the end of the hub and any anti-lock brake wheel that may be part of your hub. Then, you may need to use a specialized "puller" tool to remove the central bolt. The bearing assembly should come apart easily.

• Remove races and clean the knuckle.

Removing the bearing assembly's races usually means physically breaking them with a grinder or hammer and chisel. Because of this, you'll want to have replacement races ready. After removing the races, it's a good idea to clean the inside of the bearing assembly around the knuckle.

• Install new races and new wheel bearings.

Set new races in place in the bearing assembly with a few taps from a hammer. Finally, grease a new inner bearing and install it in the assembly. Ensure the bearings are properly aligned, that they're pushed in as far as they can go, and that any sealing rings are flush with the outside of the assembly.
Use lots of grease for your bearings. You can apply the grease by hand or with a special "bearing packer" tool. Rub plenty of extra grease around the outsides of your bearings and any sealing rings.

• Replace all parts in reverse order.

Put the hub assembly back together and install it on the axle shaft. Put the rotor back on and secure it in place with its bolts. Install a new, well-greased outer bearing at this point. Lightly tighten the castle nut and secure it in place with a new cotter pin. Replace the dust cap. Put the caliper and brake pads back in place and secure them with the appropriate bolts. Finally, put the tire back in place and secure it with lug nuts.