A fine Regency period pierced tiara ornament in gilded brass

CONDITION: some beads absent otherwise good vintage condition

SIZE: 6¼ ins w x 1 ins h (15.5 x 2.5 cm)

APPROXIMATE DATE: 1800s – 1820s

MATERIALS: metal, coral

DESCRIPTION:

This is a lovely late Georgian or Regency period tiara comb in filigree made from fire gilded brass. These are a few coral beads missing otherwise it is in excellent condition. The missing beads could probably be replaced by faux pearls.

The tiara comprises a curved openwork gallery. The gallery is elaborate with classic acanthus leaf and scroll motifs enclosing faceted coral beads which are set in the spaces. An Egyptian style crowned head is set in the center of the arch. Placed above these is a graduated row of coral beads mounted across the arch. Each bead is set upon a metal spike in the classic manner. All the beads across the top of the arch are present and in good condition.

This tiara may originally have been part of a set, consisting of a matching comb and tiara in a fitted case. The usual metal for them was silver, or silver gilt, (which is sterling silver which has been over-gilded), or as in this case, fire-gilt brass. Tiara mounts such as this, also called frontlets, were often purchased as part of a set which may contain a number of frontlets in different materials. The final picture is a compilation of some of the various designs which may be found in tiara combs of this period and is taken from contemporary portraits. A set with a comb mount and frontlets is shown in the centre.

FURTHER INFORMATION:

A form of hair comb which appeared in the early 19th century was what we now call a tiara comb. This is an ornament in which the teeth or prongs are set at a 90 degree angle to the decorative heading. When the object is worn the backwards projecting teeth are concealed beneath the front hair, and the upstanding front piece gives the appearance of a tiara proper.

In France, where most of these decorative tiara combs were produced, it was possible to secure matching sets. The ornamental headings, which were called frontlets, were secured to a detachable set of teeth by a small clip or screw fitting at either end or in the centre. A set might therefore contain a set of plain brass teeth, and two or three frontlets in different materials which could be changed to suit the occasion.

The collage picture shows a selection of illustrations taken from contemporary sources which depict similar ornaments and the hair styles with which they were worn.
The final picture shows some examples of similar hair styles of the period.