SamTeggy’s Note
From Sophia Kokosalaki’s Fall/Winter 2002 collection — the very season Vogue described as “the most polished collection London has produced this season,” and the show where even Alexander McQueen pushed through the crowd to watch.

This top channels the darker, neo-industrial spirit she embraced at the time, with collage-cut panels lashed together and spider-web threads crossing the torso. It resonates with the architectural experiments of Balenciaga, Helmut Lang, and Chalayan, yet bears Kokosalaki’s own handwriting: sharp, visceral, and rooted in her fascination with “typography and texture,” the symbolism of crosses and runes.

Her Greek heritage underpins the design — black severity, body framed like armor — while her technical mastery, refined at Ruffo Research, is evident in the leather trims and precise construction.

More than just a garment, this is an archival landmark of London’s avant-garde era. With no current active listings worldwide, it stands as a rare survivor of Kokosalaki’s early vision — a piece that embodies both the scarcity and enduring allure of her work.


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About SamTeggy
Seoul–based archive and vintage curator.
Clothes are a medley — connected, timeless, reimagined.

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