The 1989 - 1993 Ford Mustang 5.0L used an EEC-IV engine computer. Some of these computer codes were A9L, A9M, A9P, A9S, A9T, A3M, A3M1, C3W, C3W1, 8LF, 8LG, 8LD, D3D, D3D1, S0Z, and X3Z. Inside these computers lie three teal blue aluminum electrolytic capacitors. These capacitors had a life expectancy of approximately 15 to 20 years. The cars are now 25 to 30 years old, and are long past the life expectancy of the original capacitors.

The computers are now failing all the time because of these capacitors. They eventually fail by leaking their electrolytic fluid out the bottom of the capacitor. The fluid runs down the two legs and collects on the PC board and solder joints below. The solder joints begin to corrode, often turning into either a blue or green corrosion or sometimes a brown or black goo.

This weakens the leg strength of the capacitor, corrodes it's connection to the PC board, and empties the capacitor of it's electrolytic fluid. Sometimes the caps break completely off. No longer able to function correctly, the computer begins to exhibit driveability issues. These often manifest as poor idle quality, lean or rich air/fuel ratio, stumbling, misfiring, check engine light on, trouble codes, etc.

A tune-up will not fix this. The computer must be repaired or replaced if any capacitors are leaking. With the skyrocketing cost of these Fox Body "Mass Air" computers, repairing them has quickly become the most economical option. When installed properly, these capacitors can fix many problems that were being blamed on other parts.

Every Fox Body Mustang, and many other EEC-IV Fords from the same era, is likely to suffer from this problem due to their age, regardless of the mileage on the car. I HIGHLY recommend removing your computer, taking the lid off, and carefully inspecting the three capacitors with a bright light and, if necessary, a magnifying glass. Often times, even the capacitors that look good at a glance will be in the early stages of leaking if you look close enough! Look carefully at the bottom of the capacitors, the solder joints, and the board below them.

I spent a great deal of time hunting down the original Japanese capacitors. The exact originals are no longer being produced, but these are the modern equivalents from the original manufacturer. They have the best ratings you can get, the highest quality, the longest life expectancy, the best temperature range, etc.

They have a temperature range of -25C to 105C, a 10,000 hour life expectancy, and have the EXACT capacitance and voltage specifications as the originals. Other sellers often use cheaper capacitors with the wrong voltage or capacitance. Not us! These are the same ones we use at Drag Radial Performance when we rebuild Fox Body PCMs. They may also work on other Ford EEC-IV computers, but I have not personally confirmed what capacitors other vehicles use.

In my opinion, this is not a do-it-yourself job. You can, but the wrong amount of heat or some misplaced solder can ruin the capacitor and/or your computer. A good soldering and de-soldering station is a must. For this reason, I highly recommend you have an experienced electronics, computer, or TV repair professional install these for you. I will not be responsible for damaged electronics, and there are no returns on this product for any reason, because it is electrical. Instructions will NOT be included.

Note: Take pictures and notes before you begin. The installed polarity is important. Look for what direction the black stripe is facing on the original capacitors before removing them, and face these the same direction. There are three capacitors. Two are the same, one is different. Make sure you match the ratings on the new one to the old one when installing them.

This kit contains the three capacitors necessary to repair one 88-93 Mustang 5.0L "mass air" computer. Order one kit for each computer you want to repair. 1 kit = 3 capacitors = 1 computer's requirement.