For the ORIGINAL Xbox (2001-2005)
I ONLY sell name-brand, top of the line Japanese and North
American-made capacitors sourced from the distributors themselves. There
is no issue buying Capacitors on eBay, so long as you do your research,
but any listing that are suspiciously cheap, or a store that has tens
of thousands of sales, I would be skeptical of. Amazon is the worst
possible place you could purchase from, alongside random websites.
I
refurbish game consoles, and in the last 2 years or so have specialized
in just the Xbox platform, but I have recapped and refurbished pretty
much every console from the Ps1 through the 360. I will not sell a
capacitor that I haven't personally verified myself on my own consoles.
For instance, I ordered a regular CPU recapping kit from someone, and I
got JCCON caps which worked, but they were HALF the size of the original
caps and they ran HOT. They did still work, but If they can't even be
bothered to measure them, who knows what ripple current, dissipation
factor, or leakage current they chose when they bought them. Every
capacitor for the Xboxes that I sell is either the manufacturer OEM's
modern replacement, or the closest possible cap that you can get.
Don't get overcharged by certain CONSOLE websites, or possibly receive who knows what kind of capacitors from other sellers..I had a hard time going through reviews, reading spec sheets and figuring out which buyers to buy from, who to trust etc, and it was ridiculous. So instead, I went straight to the Japanese manufacturers who originally made the capacitors for the consoles (and a few American companies that make better Supercapacitors that won't leak and destroy your motherboard like the old clock caps did). Now, I have it all here for you all ready to go, and no matter your Xbox revision, this kit will have the amount of CPU/GPU capacitors you need to replace bulging capacitors your board has, as well as replacing the extremely problematic clock capacitor, which were cheaped out on by Microsoft. The clock capacitor was not of a high quality, and it leaked after so many cycles, ruining boards and destroying consoles. If your console still works, and you've never changed them, you need to inspect your capacitors immediately.
These capacitors are sourced properly, not from 3rd party sellers, amazon, ebay Aliexpres etc. All of the Capacitors I use and sell are purchased directly from Japanese or American manufacturers and their DIRECT distributors. The replacement clock capacitor is rated for 2.7V, which will prolong the life of your new, upgraded console.
Note: the voltage rating of capacitors is what it is RATED for, not what it pulls.
I
ONLY sell name-brand, top of the line Japanese
and North
American-made capacitors sourced from the distributors themselves. (See
end of listing for which brands I choose and which I don't)
There
is no issue buying Capacitors on eBay, SO LONG as you do your research,
but any listing that are suspiciously cheap, or a store that has tens
of thousands of sales, I would be skeptical of. Amazon is the worst
possible place you could purchase from, alongside random websites.
A bit about me and what I do
I
refurbish game consoles, and in the last 2 years or so have specialized
in just the Xbox platform, but I have recapped and refurbished pretty
much every console from the Ps1 through the 360. I will not sell a
capacitor that I haven't personally verified myself on my own consoles.
For instance, I ordered a regular CPU recapping kit from someone, and I
got JCCON caps which worked, but they were HALF the size of the original
caps and they ran HOT. They did still work, but If they can't even be
bothered to measure them, who knows what ripple current, dissipation
factor, or leakage current they chose when they bought them. Every
capacitor for the Xboxes that I sell is either the manufacturer OEM's
modern replacement, or the closest possible cap that you can get.
Check
the very bottom of the description for Xbox revision information if you
don't already know. If you do not know which revision your xbox is,
this kit is for you. This will have enough capacitors to cover every
single revision, so you'll likely end up with extras, be aware that this
will cost more than the revision specific kits. Only buy the master kit
if you do not know which revision you have, or you wish to have some
extra capacitors!
Don't get overcharged by
certain CONSOLE websites, or possibly receive who knows what kind of
capacitors from other sellers..I had a hard time going through reviews,
reading spec sheets and figuring out which buyers to buy from, who to
trust etc, and it was ridiculous. So instead, I went straight to the
Japanese and US based manufacturers who originally made the capacitors
for the consoles and who make better, higher end replacements. Now, I
have it all here for you all ready to go, and no matter your Xbox
revision, these kits will have every single capacitor you need to
replace bulging capacitors your board has, as well as replacing the
extremely problematic clock capacitor, which were cheaped out on by
Microsoft. The clock capacitor was not of a high quality, and it leaked
after so many cycles, ruining boards and destroying consoles. If your
console still works, and you've never changed them, you need to inspect
your capacitors immediately.
These
capacitors are sourced properly, not from 3rd party sellers, amazon,
ebay etc. All of the capacitors I use and sell are purchased directly
from Japanese or American manufacturers and their distributors. The
replacement clock capacitor is rated for 2.7V, which will prolong the
life of your new, upgraded console.
Note to Rev. 1.6 and 1.6b motherboard owners
Note:
You NEED to replace your clock capacitor on 1.6 and 1.6b motherboards
if they are failing, you cannot just remove them, otherwise your xbox
will NOT boot. You may remove that capacitor on revisions prior to 1.6,
but I replace them anyways.
ALSO
Note: The capacitors need to be oriented properly, please pay attention
to the orientation of the ones you remove. For example, on 1.6 and 1.6b
motherboards, all 5 CPU capacitors have the stripe that faces the
"front" of the console (power button side).
Here's my other capacitor listings for Microsoft's Original Xbox
-If you need a complete capacitor kit for a Revision 1.0/1.1 Xbox:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/326421546735
-If you need a complete capacitor kit for a Revision 1.2/1.3 Xbox:https://www.ebay.com/itm/326421547776
-If you need a complete capacitor kit for a Revision 1.4/1.5 Xbox:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/326499978104
-If you need a complete capacitor kit for a Revision 1.6/1.6b Xbox:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/326421549031
-If you don't know which Revision your Xbox is:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/326421551600
Here are my Capacitor Listings for the Original Xbox DVD Drives
-If you need a complete capacitor kit for a Thomson TGM600 DVD Drive:https://www.ebay.com/itm/326461350369
-If you need a complete capacitor kit for a Samsung 605B DVD Drive:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/326921347219
https://www.ebay.com/itm/326461349792
-If you need a complete capacitor kit for a Hitachi/LG GDR-8050L DVD Drive:https://www.ebay.com/itm/326461350991
-If you need a complete capacitor kit for a Phillips VAD6011 DVD Drive:https://www.ebay.com/itm/326461352418
--Included in this kit are:
-5x 3300uF 6.3v capacitors
-5x 1500uF 6.3V capacitors
-1x 1F 2.7v Clock capacitor.
I do NOT use WURTH capacitors. They are a German brand, but their
fabs are Chinese and generally are of a lower quality than other brands.
I very rarely use Panasonic, for the same reason. However they do have
some caps made in Japan, so those I will use.
Other brands I stay
away from are Murata, Sanyo (Japanese, but also mainland China and
commonly faked, even through major distributors)
Brands I DO
choose from include Nichicon (Japan), Chemicon(Nippon, also Japan),
Abracon (North America), KEMET (North America), Rubycon (Japan), KYOCERA
AVX(North America)
Don't know which revision your motherboard is?
This isn't a foolproof method, especially for 1.6 consoles, but this will give you the best idea without opening the console up.
By Manufacturers date on the white sticker on the bottom of the console:
2001 to 07-2002 Revision 1.0 Motherboards (Distinct gpu heatsink fan).
08/2002 to 01/25/2003 Revision 1.1 Motherboards (Mexico, Hungary)
01/2003 to 03/2003 Revision 1.2 Motherboards (Mexico, China)
04/2003 to 07/2003 Revision 1.3 Motherboards (China)
09/2003 to 03/2004 Revision 1.4/1.5 (Taiwan, China)
04/2004 to 09/2004 Revision 1.6 Motherboard (Taiwan, China)
09/2004 to 08/2005 Revision 1.6b Motherboard (Taiwan, China)
-Rev 1.0 Has the GPU fan
-Rev 1.1 has a larger heatsink with no fan
-Rev 1.2 has a revised motherboard layout with Samsung memory chips
-Rev 1.3 Removed LFrame trace from MCPX BGA pad to via, disconnecting signal from LPC Port
-Rev 1.4 has the "Focus" video encoder chip
-Rev
1.6 changed to the XCalibur video encoder chip. Also has a Xyclops chip
which uses ROM instead of flash. BIOS no longer flashable.
-Rev 1.6b has the Hynix memory chips, rather than the Samsung memory chips.
The
main differences you need to know is that the major changes are from
1.0/1.1, to 1.2/1.3, to 1.4/1.5, and finally 1.6/1.6b. There are 4
different capacitor kits as far as i'm aware.
Serial number decoding
he serial number is printed on the label on the bottom of the Xbox.
You can check both the week of manufacture and the factory code. The
serial number is in the format LNNNNNN YWWFF where:
- L is the number of the production line within the factory.
- NNNNNN is the number of the Xbox produced during the workweek.
- Y is the last digit of the production year.
- WW is the number of the week of the production year.
- FF is the code of the factory where the Xbox was manufactured.