Welcome to Chainsawbars Ltd. Started in 2009 with the aim of being the largest supplier of bars, chains and sprockets in the world. Roll on to today 2022 and at any one time we have more than 20,000 guide bars in stock, over 1,500 100ft reels of chain, 11,000 drive sprockets. The largest stock and range of chainsaw mills you will find ANYWHERE!
It's taken 13 years - concept to reality - no one else has exclusivity with the biggest names in the industry CANNON, GB, SUGIHARA, TSUMRA - the BIG 4. Yes we also sell Stihl and Oregon... CHAIN - too much to type!
If you want a guide bar, chain, sprocket - you just came to the right place Sir :)
Sugihara Tough Carver Dime Tip Kit 12"[30cm] 1/4 .050[1.3mm] 68 drive links [Stihl 017, 018, 021, 023, 025, MS170, MS171, MS180, MS181, MS190T, MS191T, MS211, MS230, MS231, MS241, MS250, MS251]
What do I get?
- BN6A-0X30T-A Sugihara Tough Carver Dime Tip 12″[30cm] 1/4 .050[1.3mm] 68 drive links
- 3661-13RMS Stihl Carving Micro Chisel 1/4 .050[1.3mm]
- (P-1/4-050-SC) Panther Semi Chisel 1/4 .050[1.3mm]
- S-544676 Carving Spur Sprocket 1/4 x8 tooth
- Vallorbe 4.0mm[5/32"] Chainsaw Files Twin Pack - Files 3/8 Lo Pro and 1/4 Chains
- Note: These are Dime Tip Carving Bars - you MUST have a 1/4 drive sprocket to run them
- They have a universal mount so will fit pretty much any chainsaw under 40cc [that has a 1/4 drive sprocket]
- Read the info below if this your first time having a go at carving - it is not like normal chainsaw use!
Chainsaw carving is NOT like standard chainsaw use – ie. you can’t
simply strap on a carving bar and do carving – we broke our first
carving bar and shortly after broke the chainsaw… please learn by our
mistakes! We did not follow the below..
- Chain is SLACK – no where near as tight as a standard bar, it should be hanging off the underside of the bar
- R7 bars running 1/4 .043 are SUPER delicate and only used for very fine detail work
- Carving is mainly done with the saw at half throttle [or
thereabouts] – very different from standard work where most cuts are
with full throttle
- Carving bars take longer to bed in – run them gently and ensure they
don’t get hot for the first couple of tanks [which means carve for a
minute – rest a minute – carve for a minute = rest for a minute… ]
There are 3
types of Sugihara Guidebar – Pro Laminated, Pro Solid and Light Type
pro. Have a look at the second picture above in the gallery to see how
these bars differ.
What makes a Sugihara bar so good? This is a difficult question to summarise easily.
Sugihara
bars started manufacturing chainsaw bars in 1967 by Hideo Sugihara.
Japan has always had a reputation for excellence forging and working
steel. Having the knowledge to manufacture quality chainsaw bars is not
something that is gained overnight. It is a complex process of which
cutting out the initial bar is only one part.
Steel
has different properties dependant on how it is heated then cooled.
Sugihara bars may go through the process of heating and cooling up to 4
times on different parts of the bar in order to gain maximum
performance. The rails need to be accurately cut and hardened but over
hardening can make them brittle. The bar body needs to be stiff yet
flexible. We have used a number of different chainsaw bars over the
years including all the major manufactures. Sugihara bars are the
hardest wearing bars out there. Even their laminated bars will outlast
rivals.
On the single piece pro and light type bars the hardness
of the rails is measured at HRC 60. Compare this to Stihl at HRC 57 and
Oregon at HRC 55 and it is clear why these bars last longer. They are so
hard they resist most flat files when it comes to bar dressing.
However
bear in mind they are more 'thoroughbred' in that if they are
mistreated and the bar gets over heated they are more prone to chipping.
In the wrong hands these bars have a far shorter lifespan so please be
aware of your bar maintenance:
Check your drive
rim/drive sprocket BEFORE you buy a new bar - if worn you MUST change
this before running a brand new high tolerance bar
Old
chains [yes if they have a been used 'a few' times this counts as old -
must NOT be run on a new bar [or you can but you will likely wear the
bar much faster]. If in doubt do not do it.
DO bed in your new bar and allow all the different parts to begin the bedding in process