Rectangular foam pads with abrasive grit bonded to the surface. Unlike rigid sandpaper, the foam backing is flexible — it bends, folds, and conforms to the curves and contours of your models. This makes them dramatically more effective on miniatures and vehicles than flat sandpaper sheets, because the abrasive follows the shape of the part instead of just hitting the high spots.

AK's range covers six grit grades from P400 (coarse) to P3000 (ultra-fine), giving you a complete progression from rough material removal right through to mirror-smooth polishing. Each pack contains 6 sponges, and they can be cut to smaller strips for detail work in tight spaces.

For wargamers and miniature painters, these solve a common problem: getting a clean, smooth surface on plastic and resin models before priming. Mould lines, print layers, glue residue, and surface imperfections all disappear with the right grit.

The workhorse grit for fast material removal. Quickly takes down mould lines, heavy sprue gates, glue blobs, and surface imperfections on plastic, resin, and 3D prints. Use this as your first pass when a model needs serious cleanup before moving to finer grits.

Best for: Mould line removal, heavy print line reduction on FDM/SLA prints, flattening glue joints, rough-shaping putty and filler, cleaning up resin flash, prepping large terrain surfaces.

The all-rounder. Smooths out the scratch marks left by P400 while still removing enough material to deal with moderate imperfections. Often the only grit many wargamers need for standard infantry and vehicle prep — aggressive enough to clean, fine enough to look good under primer.

Best for: General model prep after initial cleanup, smoothing filler and gap-filling putty, refining mould line areas after rough sanding, preparing surfaces for primer on standard tabletop-quality models.

The pre-primer finish grit. Produces a smooth, even surface that primers love to grab onto. Removes the fine scratches left by P500-600 without being so fine that you lose tooth for paint adhesion. This is where most display-quality painting prep stops before priming.

Best for: Final surface prep before priming, smoothing putty work to invisibility, refining curved surfaces on vehicles and monsters, reducing 3D print lines to near-invisible levels, evening out surface texture on resin kits.

Entering polishing territory. At this grit, you're no longer removing material — you're refining the surface finish itself. Use between coats, after primer, or to gently knock back texture before metallic paints, gloss coats, or decal application.

Best for: Sanding between primer coats for glass-smooth results, prepping surfaces for metallics and chrome, light polishing of clear parts (canopies, windscreens), matting gloss finishes before washes or filters.

Ultra-fine polishing for near-mirror finishes. Produces a surface smooth enough for high-gloss paint, automotive-style finishes, and display competition models. At this level you're working to eliminate any visible texture at all.

Best for: Polishing clear coats, preparing surfaces for Alclad and similar metallic lacquers, finishing automotive and aircraft models to showroom standard, polishing canopies and clear parts to optical clarity.

The finest grit in the range — pure polishing. This doesn't sand in any traditional sense; it buffs and polishes the surface to a glass-like sheen. The final step before polishing compounds, or the only step you need for touching up a gloss finish.

Best for: Final polish on clear coats, removing orange peel from spray finishes, buffing metallic paints to a reflective sheen, restoring clarity to scratched clear parts, display-competition-level surface preparation.

They're consumable. Like all abrasives, sanding sponges wear out. The 6-pack format gives you a reasonable stock for multiple projects, but heavy users working through a large army or terrain project may go through them faster. Stock up on the grits you use most.

Not for metal. These are designed for plastic, resin, putty, and primer. Sanding bare metal (pewter, white metal) will clog the grit quickly and wear the sponge out prematurely. Use files or bristle pencils for metal parts.

Most wargamers only need P400-P1000. If you're painting to tabletop standard, P400 for cleanup and P800-1000 for pre-primer smoothing covers 90% of your needs. The finer grits (P1200+) are for display-quality work, competition models, and automotive/aircraft finishes where surface perfection matters.