Brake Bias Balance Bar and Remote Adjuster Cable
Clevises have 5/16" UNF Threads for connecting to Master Cylinder Pushrods.
5/16" UNF is 5/16" x 24 Threads per Inch.
Balance Bar has the Large & Stronger 7/16" shaft
(Smaller 3/8" shafts are prone to bending or breaking under heavy loads.)
Essential for all Race Applications,
Optimum BRAKE BALANCE
results in PRECISION HANDLING
One x LARGE 7/16" BRAKE BALANCE BAR
Two x 7/16" CLEVISES with 5/16" UNF THREADS
One x REMOTE MOUNT BIAS ADJUSTER CABLE & KNOB (1000mm long)
NOT included:
Push rod extenders are not included, please see our other items.
For other fittings and accessories, Check our other items!
Simple to adjust for brake optimisation during changing race conditions.
The central spherical bearing is 26mm diameter, is a high quality PTFE /Teflon lined.
Offers durable performance and a smooth adjustment.
Initially there are several
variables which, when understood enable you to refine your brake balance
settings effectively. The variables are: master cylinder bore sizes for front
and rear, balance bar position, calliper pistons total bore areas for front and
rear, brake pad material & area, brake rotor diameter and pad area. All of these elements are important and the
relationship between them is helpful to understand. Consult a professional as
necessary prior to committing to brake callipers, brake rotors and brake pads.
Any homework done early in the design stage of your braking system will reduce
any unnecessary expense. Generally many vehicles transfer so much weight to the
front under heavy braking, that as much as 80% of braking effort is required by
the front brakes, typically leaving 20% for the rear brakes. Your particular
vehicle may only transfer 65% to the front and 35% to the rear, so again, doing
a little homework at the early design stages is vital to obtaining the correct
brake components. Also, keep in mind the operating temperature of your braking
system is vital. It is important that both front and rear brakes have the same
temperature gradient at all times. This will ensure no irregular front to rear
braking forces are present. A poorly designed braking system will lock the
fronts at some times and lock the rears at others. This would typically be a
result of mismatched operating temperatures relative to each other. Seek
professional advice as required. Most modern vehicle scales have the ability to
determine the centre of gravity and weight distribution, which is used for the
calculation of the front and rear braking efforts required.
Fit the remote bias adjuster knob in a location that is convenient to reach and see while driving. The Adjustment knob should be mounted thru a panel or support bracket at a location which allows the flexible cable to reach to the balance bar. If it is fitted to a pedal box, ensure it is from the throttle side. Ensure that the throttle lever is shaped to provide full clearance to the remote cable under the condition that the brake lever is in the fully depressed position.
Fix the cable to the remote adjuster knob and the balance bar threaded section using the provided set screws. Should you wish to shorten the cable, ensure all ends are de-burred and long enough to operate efficiently. The bias adjustment is only to be used when the brake lever is in the relaxed position.
Never operate the bias adjustment
while the brake pedal is in the depressesed position, or under braking.
When driving on a consistent surface, you may ideally want the front tires to lock-up with a slightly less pedal effort than the rears. This will assist to keep the vehicle stable while entering a corner under braking conditions and prevent unnecessary spinning out. With the pedal in the relaxed position, turn the adjusting nut on remote cable so that it advances the spherical bearing closer to the selected master cylinder, increasing the braking force produced by that master cylinder.
The spherical bearing in the balance bar has a wide range of adjustment. If you find that after testing, that you are at the edge of the adjustment range, you will need to make a change to the master cylinder bore sizes, or possibly changes to the front/ rear callipers, pads or rotors. Refer the “how it works” notes above. Should you choose to correct the balance issue by changing the master cylinder bore sizes, there are three possible changes that you can make (See below). Each change is aimed to move the spherical joint back towards the ideal centre position.
Option 1: Decrease the master cylinder bore size closest to the spherical joint to a few sizes down (typically by -1/8"). This will reduce the braking force required to that circuit, but increase pedal travel. The spherical bearing will be re-adjusted towards the centre position.
Option 2: Increase the master cylinder bore size furthest to the spherical joint to a few sizes up (typically by +1/8"). This will increase the braking force required to that circuit, but decrease pedal travel. The spherical bearing will be re-adjusted towards the centre position.
Option 3: Increase the master cylinder bore size farthest from to the
spherical joint by one size up (+1/16"). Decrease the master cylinder bore
size closest from to the spherical joint by one size down (-1/16"). This
will maintain the same amount of brake force and pedal travel. The spherical
bearing will be re-adjusted towards the centre position.
Option 4: After testing and refining your brake balance, note your ideal settings by recording the number of turns in or out from a referenced location or by recording the line pressure distribution. Fine adjustment during driving will maintain your ideal balance to suit varying conditions such as changes in weather, fuel usage, weight distribution, tyre wear, road surface and your driving style.