André Guillerme-Guilson was one of the last independent Parisian master tailor until his passing in 2018. Born in 1939, he opened his first shop at age 20. In the 1970's, due to the rise of ready-to-wear and the lack of success, he decided to close his shop and work for the bespoke tailoring giant Francesco Smalto. There, he learned with the master how to create a classic Parisian suit. From the trademark lapel that Smalto perfected after working with Joseph Camps, to the cigarette shoulder and the sharp silhouette typical of Francesco Smalto, Guilson made suits as an apiéceur for a number of years. However, he wanted to regain his independence. With the help of Michel Barnes (Arthur & Fox), he moved to the 16th Arrondissement, Avenue Victor Hugo, the center of the Parisian bourgeoisie at the time. He later moved to Rue Boissière, with the help of a client and friend, and created the atelier Guilson. He will stay there for 25 years before moving to the 8th arrondissement, Rue Saint Philippe du Roule. Guilson will become influential in the development of french tailoring, first as a member, then as president of the Chambre Syndicale des Tailleurs (Union Chamber of Tailors). There, he worked to train new tailors so that Parisian Bespoke could live on. That is why he created the Association de Formation Tailleur (AFT), a tailoring school that trained countless newcomers in the art of suitmaking. With the help of workers from Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto, and many other tailors, the school trained new tailors (from seamstresses to cutters), who will later work for these ateliers. For instance, Florian and Aïdée Sirven both came from the AFT, and one of Guilson's worker, Brahim Bouloujour, won Meilleur Ouvrier de France, before opening his own atelier (Brano). At age 79, André Guillerme-Guilson sadly passed away in 2018, and the school was closed. But his work lives on in the many tailors he trained and helped, crafting new bespoke suits in the Parisian tradition. His style was influenced by Francesco Smalto and Camps de Luca, but the client's desire was always first. One of them was the fashion designer Thierry Mugler, for whom he made countless suits and jackets, along with a few curiosities (notably officer suits with artificially arched legs and sleeves). I propose a beautiful bespoke Guilson grey jacket with a subtle houndstooth pattern in a light wool. Made in the 1990's, it will become one of your favorite jacket for the mid-season. It features everything you want from Guilson: a classic parisian lapel in the style of Camps de Luca, a rich cigarette shoulder, a precise cut and excellent fabric. It also has a nice decoration, l'Ordre du Mérite Agricole, from the previous owner.
As always with Guilson, it is fully handmade, from the lining to the buttonholes, from the shoulder to the collar. The conditions is excellent. The jacket is best fitted for someone with a 40UK/50FR size, around 1m80. Here are the measurements Shoulders: 45cm Sleeve length: 64cm (with 5cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 51,5cm Waist at button: 51cm Jacket length: 79cm (collar included, with 4,5cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 8,5cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Francesco Smalto, Claude Rousseau, Arnys, Lanvin Mesure, Urban, Max Evzeline, Opelka, Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico), Rubinacci, Dalcuore, Panico - In England: Anderson & Sheppard, Henry Poole, Huntsman & Sons, Nutters of Savile Row, Chittleborough & Morgan, Richard Anderson, Meyer & Mortimer Possible to try it in Paris 15th Arrondissement.