Belt for Technics Turntables SL-H306, SL-H306U, SL-H309, SL-H309U from Professor Phonograph  
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Brand New High Quality Turntable Belt
for Technics models SL-BD10, SL-BD20, 
and
SL-BD35

from
Professor Phonograph

WELCOME TO TURNTABLES, ETC.

There is a common myth that one belt fits 95% of all turntables. In reality, nothing could be further from the truth! If a typical belt is, say, an inch too small, the turntable will probably run, but you will wear out your motor in about a year. If the same belt is an inch too large, again, the turntable will probably run, but as the belt ages, it expands. Because this belt is too large from the start, you will need to replace it years before it would normally need replacement!

Don't trust your turntable to a novice with an eBay account and an electronic parts account!

Flat Rubber belts have 5 measurements that are critical to ensure proper performance.
  1. The obvious one is length, this affects tightness. If the belt is too tight, it slowly kills the motor. Belt Drive motors are generally not available any longer. If its too lose, it does not put enough tension on the motor, and soon it will begin slipping, years before the correct belt would begin to slip!
  2. The width of the belt is one most of us do not think about very much, yet it is critically important. These usually range between 23/64 and 39/64 of an inch (or metric equivalants) these are usually measures down to the 64th of an inch to ensure precision. If a belt is too wide, the risk is not fitting the capstan of your turntable. If a belt is too narrow, the risk is slipping, which will make the table seem to speed up and slow down. This may be inaudible at first, but in six month, who knows?
  3. The thickness of the belt. This is the smallest of the belts dimensions. Belts that are made for most turntables will be about the same thickness. The belt is supposed to wrap tightly around the capstan. There are Flat Rubber Belts out there that are way too thick for use on a turntable. The capstan is the part of the motor that keeps the speed going consistently. A belt that is too thick will not be in contact with the capstan as much as the designer and manufacturer intended. The result? wobbly pitch!
  4. External diameter. Its pretty simple, yet important; the distance around the inside of the belt. Obviously, this measurement is closely related to #3 and #5.
  5. External diameter. Its pretty simple, yet important; the distance around the outside of the belt. Obviously, this measurement is closely related to #3 and #4.

This belt fits these Technics turntables, and while it fits some other Technics and Panasonic models, it does not fit all Technics and Panasonic models. I was a store manager for the largest independent Technics and Panasonic dealer in the Southeastern United States, I also ordered parts direct from Panasonic. Please let me share this knowledge with you. There are established websites that use the same belt for all Technics tables, and while some are “close” they are not an exact match.

Also, watch out for guys that have belts that have been sitting around the shop for a couple of years! The shelf-life of a brand new belt that is recently manufactured is about 5 years of normal play. I only have belts that are brand new, recently manufactured turntable belts. Some say that I only keep belts that are
fresh!

These belts are not cut to size, they are precision molded to match the original factory specifications for the following Turntable:
  • Technics SL-BD10 SLBD10
  • Technics SL-BD20 SLBD20
  • Technics SL-BD30 SLBD30
  • Technics SL-BD35 SLBD35

About these models:
I managed a Pro Sound Store for over 20 years (from the late 70s to the early years of this century). I took notes of people bringing in turntables The Technics SL-BD10, SL-BD20, and SL-BD30 are turntables that customers ordered and stocked (while they were current models) and that customers brought in for belts. A few months before these models hit the shelves, Technics/Panasonic discontinued making turntables. The audio world was shocked, I even documented to the Panasonic sales reps and their supervisors that my store was selling a turntable with each system that our customers purchased. Everyone still had LPs, and everyone still needed a way to play their old vinyl. After about 4 months we were told that they had realized their mistake and began making these new models. I still remember getting these (at that time) new models in. This was an exciting time. These models do not take the same belt as their predecessors (most SL-B models use a different belt!). 
A few years later, there was an early, non-Panasonic, parts cross-reference with a lot of errors in it, and the info it contained had a belt that contradicts what Panasonic told me when I called to order parts direct, so I know my info is correct. There are many, many major parts dealers that copied the errors in the non-Panasonic parts cross-reference, and even that information was copied as if it was factual. Many major parts places are selling the wrong belts for these specific models, even to this day.
Here is the info I copied from my notes from inventory and my actual customer’s SL-BD10, SL-BD20, and SL-BD30 turntables:
These models are basically the same drive system, the differences in these models seem to be features. 
The SL-BD10 is a fully manual belt drive turntables. Most of the controls are on the outside of the dust cover. On the far left is the speed selector, it has 3 positions: On the left is a speed selector, 33 on the left side and 45 is on the right. There is no pitch control. If you have pitch issues with this model, there is a solution available, the process takes about a day, I can guide you through. Click contact seller near where it says turntables, etc. (upper right side of this page), I want to help. The next control to the right is a cue control. Move the cue control to where it shows up (arrow), and the arm raises, move it down and the arm lowers. Near the tonearm, toward the back is an anti-skating device. If you are having issues with your anti-skating device, click contact seller near where it says turntables, etc. (upper right side of this page), I want to help. The switch on the far right is an on/off switch. As it is a fully manual turntable, the user must move the arm to the record and either set it on the vinyl, or lower it with the cue lever. The plater does not begin spinning until the user hits the power on/off switch. When the user chooses, the user must raise the arm to stop playing the record. There is no automatic cut off, there is no auto-lift.
The SL-BD20 is a semi-automatic belt drive turntable. Most of the controls are on the outside of the dust cover. On the far left is the speed selector, it has 2 positions: left is 33 and 45 is on the right. There is no pitch control. If you have pitch issues with this model, there is a solution available, the process takes about a day, I can guide you through. Click contact seller near where it says turntables, etc. (upper right side of this page), I want to help. The next control to the right is a cue control. Move the cue control to where it shows up (arrow), and the arm raises, move it down and the arm lowers. Near the tonearm, toward the back is an anti-skating device. If you are having issues with your anti-skating device, click contact seller near where it says turntables, etc. (upper right side of this page), I want to help. The switch on the far right is an on/off switch. As it is a semi-automatic turntable, the user must move the arm to the record and either set it on the vinyl, or lower it with the cue lever. The plater begins spinning as the arm nears the platter. When the user chooses, the user may raise the arm to stop playing the record or hit the stop button. There is an automatic cut off at the end of the record.
The SL-BD30 is a fully automatic belt drive turntable. On the left is a speed selector, 33 on the left side and 45 is on the right. There is no pitch control. If you have pitch issues with this model, there is a solution available, the process takes about a day, I can guide you through. Click contact seller near where it says turntables, etc. (upper right side of this page), I want to help. The next control to the right is a cue control. Move the cue control to where it shows up (arrow), and the arm raises, move it down and the arm lowers. Near the tonearm, toward the back is an anti-skating device. If you are having issues with your anti-skating device, click contact seller near where it says turntables, etc. (upper right side of this page), I want to help. The switch on the far right is an on/off switch. As it is a fully automatic turntable, the user may move the arm to the record and either set it on the vinyl, or press the start/stop button. The plater begins spinning when the arm nears the platter. When the user chooses, the user must raise the arm to stop playing the record, or hit the start stop button. There is an automatic cut off when the record is finished playing.
Caution: I strongly recommend against using the repeat button. I read in a Stereo Review or something that the tip of the stylus is extremely hot while playing vinyl (I think it said thousands of degrees? unsure of the details), and that if the vinyl can cool properly, the damage is minimal. This source said it takes vinyl an hour to cool before replaying, or the damage is extensive. I had physics in college, and personally, I thought I was reading a bunch of %$&#*!. At that time I had become a manual turntable guy, but before that, I owned a semi-automatic, and before that I owned a fully automatic. When I went back to those records I bought with the fully automatic, I could easily hear that the vinyl was far worse on those records, and everything I bought after switching to semi-automatic was in great shape. It was the repeat button, I used it a lot when I had the fully automatic table. Please use the repeat button cautiously, or don't use it!
(SL-BD30 continued...) To the right of the repeat switch is a switch for the user to select the size of the vinyl (7", like most 45s, 10" or 12", like most LPs). There is a cue lever to the right of the tonearm (near the back). Move the cue lever up, and the arm raises, move it down and the arm lowers. Near the cue lever is an anti-skating device. If you are having issues with your anti-skating device, click contact seller near where it says turntables, etc. (upper right side of this page), I want to help. The switch on the far right is says "start stop". As it is a fully automatic turntable, the user can press the start stop button to begin playing a record, or move the arm to the record and either set it on the vinyl, or lower it with the cue lever. The plater begins spinning as the arm nears the vinyl. When the user chooses to stop playing the record, the user hits "start stop" to stop playing the record. There is an automatic cut off after the end of the record, the arm lifts and returns home.

Local Pickup Available at no charge! I am in Tucker, GA (North and East of Atlanta) 5 times a week and in Monroe, GA (between Athens and Loganville) at least 5 days a week. Message me before you buy to arrange a pickup.
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Thanks, in advance, for your purchase!