Jumpy Tractor?
Wife and kids scared to drive it your Case tractor?
Not as fast in Forward?
I am the original. I am the guy that "invented" an improved linkage kit. My linkage is the best version and this is with ALL things considered.
Your travel control linkage and travel control lever pivot bushing is worn and that causes the negative operational experiences. It is not an if, it just is. After just 10-20 years the travel control system was degrading. That is truly amazing. It is some pretty good engineering from Case. This is a kit of various standard parts that are in use doing this same thing, but I modified the parts to work best in this application and to make installation easier than if they were left untouched. This kit that will certainly restore your tractor use experience to the same as new. And then this kit is better than original meaning the parts will last for the life of the tractor.
With this kit you will still need to push down on the control lever. The Owner's Manual says that is what you do to change direction. You can get an Owner's Manual from a Case parts Dealer or for free from the internet. This design is to release the travel control lever from the neutral detent. When you do not press down on the lever you are forcing the lever past the detent. Pressing down on the travel lever will be a huge improvement in tight spaces.
My kit replaces items 5-10 in the speed control parts diagram that is in this post. Check to see if your parts match the diagram parts. If they look the same, they are the same. Some of the part numbers changed over the years, but they are the same part.
No more wimpy inline link, item 8, that has always worn out first. The spherical rod end is many times stronger and durable. Then lastly, this part of the kit was never mentioned as needing to be replaced by the whole Case-Ingersoll community until I noticed how much slop I saw there and it was the washer, part #5, for the Travel Control Lever. You can search the forum casecoltingersoll and search my user name, ssmewing and see the history of my old posts and my discovery of the need for new parts that were never used before I came up with a design and a parts source.
The Travel Control Valve inline link. It is C19025 from a parts dealer. When less than 1/16" of slop matters and the control rod gets worn and it makes the hole in the control lever bigger as well. The worn out hole in the control lever problem is a problem. All the replacement parts, shipped from a dealer would be almost $50 and not fix the control rod slop. Then if you really want to take out the slop you replace the plastic washer that the control lever pivots in (C21518/C44383). This replaces a plastic washer with a bronze thrust washer. Reference the parts manual page. This bronze thrust washer is in my kit.
This linkage will fit all 400 and 200 that are in the serial number range below.
220-9656747 and up
222-9658189 and up
224-9667000 and up
444-9661261 and up
The 4 digit tractors is all. The list is below and all the models it fits.
3010-ALL
3012-ALL
3014-ALL
3016-ALL
3018-ALL
3020-ALL
4014-ALL
4016-ALL
4018-ALL
4020-ALL
It does not fit any of the loaders in the 600, 6000 or 7000 series. There are no parts that are the same on my kit and the loader parts.
644-NO
646-NO
648-NO
6018-NO
6020-NO
7020-NO
Dealers sell parts that are COMPLETELY available. I recommend that you buy any part that is a pivot or rubs on another part and any part that the dealer says MAY need replacement. They all work together and in the end you will only get a result that is equal to the most worn part of the travel control system. If you want it to work like is was new, that is only possible if you replace all the parts.
I have posted videos to help you understand the installation on YouTube; Search for Hemlock Case Guy, Case Ingersoll End Jumpy Tractor.
Please contact me for any help you may need. And check my Facebook page and YouTube, Hemlock Case Guy. I have posted how to videos and other generally helpful information there.
The heim joint comes with a grease zerk that I remove because it gets in the way during installation. I have started including the removed grease zerk in the bag. It is not needed but you may re-install it using a 7 mm wrench or socket.
It is not an easy place to get into. The 3 digit tractor has the front PTO lever in the way of the travel control lever for changing the washer. I usually do this job when I have the engine and hydraulic tank out of the tractor. It is very easy to do at that point. The adjustment of the linkage is very easy compared to the installation.
You can also check the linkage adjustment for center from the control lever operation. You will be centered if the lever reaches the same point in both directions. Just make sure that you are looking straight at lever to get it dialed in. Another hint is if you lengthen the linkage that will take away reverse and add to forward.
The first version of my linkage had the larger joint for the control lever end. It has a 5/16" stud. that means that you MUST drill the hole of the control lever to fit the larger stud.
I did that just a few times use a joint that is plenty strong and does not require extra work or any drilling.
I would never build something that someone else created, ever. There are now two copycats selling their version of the linkage that did not exist until I made it. Neither is better than mine. My sales counter reset at one time a couple years ago when I was not paying attention to how many I had to sell. I buy parts in lots of 100 so that the price of the linkage is worth the money and effort. My eBay sales are more around 400. Then I do sell a lot locally and get hired locally to install the linkage and those I do not have a way to track the numbers as easy as sales on eBay.