Several years ago, I attempted to model a Chesapeake & Ohio class K-2 locomotive from the series that used a type BL feed water heater. This was the result. The model was kitbashed using a Mantua Tyco frame, drivers, valve gear and cab, mated to a Cary Locomotive Works Mikado boiler. The pilot is a heavily modified casting. As I recall, the tender is a Rivarossi Berkshire tender typical of the larger C&O locomotives, which frequently swapped tenders among various classes. Numerous brass castings from CalScale and Kemtron were added including the flying pumps on the smoke box front, piping along the boiler and scratch built walkways along the boiler sides. I think the result is representative of the class.
This model operated for many sessions on a model of the C&O between Hinton and Clifton Forge, and was used primarily to move long strings of empty hoppers from the arrival yard to staging and the other end of the railroad - providing good tractive effort - due to the motor power and the weight of the boiler.
Note that the drivers, while spoked, have solid backs - you can't see through them. The second and third drivers are “blind”, allowing the locomotive to operate on tighter than prototype curves.
The motor is a large Sagami can motor, driving the mechanism through a NWSL idler gearbox. A SoundTraxx DCC decoder from the DSD-100 series is mounted in the tender with an appropriate 'high bass' speaker.
The connection between the loco and tender consists of two Miniatronics connectors. The lead conductor carries the headlight load (blue & white decoder wires) and polarity does not matter. The three-wire connector carries motor power (gray and orange decoder wires) to the motor. The center wire is the locomotive chassis ground – right rail power – connected to the red lead from the decoder. The white dot on that connector should face upward. If the locomotive runs backwards from your expectations, simply reverse the polarity of that three-wire connector and that will correct the problem.
I suggest you use tweezers to connect the Miniatronics wires between the loco and the tender. Then slide any excess wire back into the tender to move it out of the way.
There is a small screw installed in the rear of the loco frame on the boss that connects to the tender. It holds the tender (fiber) drawbar in place. Simply remove the screw, place the fiber drawbar over the boss where the screw goes and reinstall the screw- which has a washer head – over the drawbar to semi-permanently couple the two units.
The cab number, 1185, is also the DCC loco number.
The model will be carefully packed in an inner box that will be place in a box measuring 10 x 6 x 4 and weighing about 2.5 pounds. Shipment to any US destination will be via USPS Priority Mail at the seller's expense.