We inherited this from my Grandmother, who passed away years ago. She collected jewels and precious metals of many kinds, especially 14k gold. Please let me know if you have any questions.
This 18k Gold Pearl & Sapphire Ring is an antique piece of French jewelry. The hallmark appears to be Eagle Head type I, Paris ca 1838-1847 (see diagram below comparison between type I and type II). The mark on this ring does not appear to have the type II revisions of the elongated stylization, the upturned feather at the back, the more pronounced return to the beak, or the exaggerated dark brow line.
I have not yet been able to identify the other maker's mark, which does appear to be partially obscured from wear.
The ring features beautiful delicate sapphire colored stones framing 9 pearls of varying sizes, all set in 18k gold. I do not know how to determine the grades or authenticity of the pearls or stones, but given its vintage, they are definitely not plastic, and the pearls predate the introduction of consumer grade cultured pearls, which would have been around 1920.
The pearls could be one of the following...
Key Types of Simulated Pearls (Pre-1920)
Venetian Glass Pearls (13th Century onward): The earliest imitation pearls originated in Venice, made by coating solid or hollow glass spheres with a mix of powdered glass, snail slime, and egg white.
Roman Pearls (17th–19th Century): These were often made of alabaster or hollow glass, which were then coated multiple times with "essence d'orient," a paste made from fish scales, mixed with varnish.
Jacquin Method (Post-1686): French beadmaker Monsieur Jacquin popularized a method of filling hollow glass beads with wax to provide weight and coating them with essence d’orient. This technique created a soft, realistic luster that replaced dangerous, mercury-based coatings used previously.
Wax-Filled Beads (19th-early 20th Century): Popular in the 19th and early 20th centuries, these were hollow glass, coated in fish scale essence, and filled with wax for weight and durability
The ring size is 11. It would be a unique and elegant addition to any jewelry collection. Its timeless design and quality craftsmanship make it a valuable and luxurious piece for any jewelry enthusiast.