For Laser Modules visit eBay Seller:  https://www.ebay.com/str/dtrlpf?_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211In general: all parts are shipped with the machine finish as shown in the LISTING PHOTOS. Final finishing is by the Buyer (prop maker) and may include whatever; polishing, graining, distressing, acid washes, electroplating, and other treatments as selected and executed by the Buyer. Most parts will have some cosmetic blemishes that the Buyer may/may-not want to remove or enhance. Thank You.

Type II Phaser, Hero Phaser Nozzle, LSR 12mm Ready, Spinner ring, Greg Jein, All others, Metal Phaser Part

Star Trek, TOS, Phaser Metal Nozzle, Aluminum Alloy


This is a recreation of Greg Jein owned Hero nozzle as seen on display all over the internet. See my photos. This recreation was carefully copied paying special attention to the front nose radius and, knurl height, to attempt an exacting copy.



  1. One Nozzle, Priced Each, in this listing. Nozzle shown assembled and disassembled for reference purposes.

  2. Fits everything. Art Asylum retrofit how-to-pictures shown for your pleasure, Phaser, holster and, other items not included.

  3. NO ACRYLIC EMITTER INCLUDED. PHASER INSTALLED PHOTO FOR REFERENCE ONLY. CHECK OUT MY OTHER LISTINGS FOR THE MANY PARTS SEEN IN THE LAST IMAGE.

  4. Three part design with spinner knurl section. No Ratchet effect, true to the HMS Roddenberry prop mechanics. Perfect knurl alignment thanks to new tooling. This item is exquisite in every way. Entirely machined and end milled, the knurl is not extruded aluminum.

  5. Finished 6063-T5 Aluminum Alloy (British HE9), not hard anodized: ready for 12mm LSR or traditional light bulb installation.

  6. This Aluminum Nozzle replica is a three part design (Roddenberry Spinner/Greg Jein type mechanics) extensively prototyped and engineered & re-engineered by me to allow a quick retrofit to AA/DS P2 TOS shells, as well as any shell you choose, while being the most efficient combined heat-sink & heat-dissipator possible when used with a standard 12 mm diameter LSR 12mm module.

  7. I have provided; photos of the item you get but you can contact me for more if you want more images.

  8. The aluminum is NOT ANODIZED and is of a more workable alloy type than others on the market. Why?, I used a special 6063-T5 un-anodized aluminum because it is workable by a prop builder. Anodizing most often hardens the material surface making it difficult to; machine, grain and/or, further polish. I want you to have options.

  9. This aluminum nozzle is easy to; mirror polish even-more, drill, file, acid weather, rolex grain and, do anything else you can come up with, your the prop builder and I say have some fun! I also do not like anodizing because it does not look Prop Authentic to the 1960s TV show.

  10. Working It: Put a wood 1/2 inch dowel in a drill, sand THE DOWEL down to for the 31/64 inch hole diameter, mount the part, and you have a mini-lathe to; file, grain, polish, and do what you like, to this part.

  11. Nozzle Size & Details: The standard Trek nominal: 1-1/8 diameter x 1 inch long exposed decorative part. Overall part is nominal 1 - 3/4 inch. Details were primarily taken from the Greg Jeins style phaser nozzle in my archive collection.

  12. Mounting Hole Dimension: Split-style shell or other detail by you; 0.600 inch diameter shaft hole, 0.800 inch diameter interior collar. Some builders use a 0.800 inch diameter hole in a non-split-shell and retain the nozzle with a hand cut sheet metal horse-shoe shape retainer, using a U-Shape 0.600 inch diameter cut-out in a small rectangular piece of thin 0.060 inch metal.

  13. Compatible With: Everything, HMS Roddenberry Resin Kits, Shanko Fiberglass Hero s, 23rd Century Pistol Kits, remember you're the prop builder !

  14. Modification of the toy phaser or or other prop, such as fiberglass or resin, is most likely required. Watch the slideshow by clicking the link.

  15. Acrylic Emitter Size: Accepts standard 5/16 inch aftermarket emitter, or make your own from some 5/16 inch diameter acrylic rod & sandpaper & with an electric drill or, lathe. You're the prop builder ! I also sell drilled and not-drilled emitters in my eBay store.

  16. Acrylic Emitter Fitting: The aluminum has a hole 0.313 inches dia. for the acrylic. This may be a force-fit (no glue if you choose none). You will need to fit the emitter by lightly sanding down the acrylic diameter so it can be pushed-in. If you have a press you can just force-fit the acrylic without sanding.

  17. LSR 12mm Module Size: Fits standard 12 mm diameter modules of both full or half length (use the full length ones). Modules available on ebay from ebay seller DTR-LPF.

  18. I SUGGEST YOU ORDER LSR 12mm MODULES WITHOUT CHROME FOCUS RINGS FOR EASE OF INSTALLATION, THESE COIN-EDGE CHROME RINGS ALSO CAN BE TAKEN OFF BY YOU. You're the prop builder !

  19. LSR 12mm Module Cavity Size Nominal: 12.00 mm to 12.02 mm (31/64 inches approx.) diameter x 1 - 1/4 inches depth to accept the full module. There is pilot hole if you wish to add an no. 8-32 cup point set-screw provided to secure the module or lighting assembly.

  20. Thermal Conduction: My 6063 is rated at 210 W/m*K 15% higher than 6064 / 6262 (higher is better for LSR 12mm applications). 6064 (also known as 6262) is great for anodizing but has a lower thermal conduction rating of 172 W/m*K. The one part design is a most efficient combined heat-sink & heat-dissipator .

  21. Accurate: I think you can't get more accurate than this Hero nozzle, you can own the same type of Hero nozzle seen on some Star Trek episodes on TV. This nozzle is entirely hand machined on a lathe and indexed end-mill. It is not extruded aluminum (the TV show did not use such an extrusion). It is not anodized. The front radius is smaller than a Stines to conform to the screen captures I reviewed (thanks re-mastering...).

  22. You get what you see in the photographs, but ask questions anyway…..live long and question..


My LSE Module Adjustment and Install suggestion is as follows:
This is a suggestion and you are the prop maker responsible for the result, aka not me...

1. LSR Module; remove chrome focus ring from brass-lens-assembly and discard chrome ring only (don't lose the brass lens assembly and related backing-spring).
1a. Remember all beams are rectangular (not round).
2. Mount LSR Module in a heat-sinking fixture and refocus the now "unfocused" lens so the beam is tight.
3. I use a $5 aluminum fixture from AiXiz on eBay, mount the heat-sink fixture on a cigar-box with; a switch and battery-power sled.
4. Focus at 10 to 20 feet away, wearing safety goggles, so one can observe when the beam-spot appears "tight" on the wall surface.
4a. I use a razor (module-off) to turn the brass-lens-assembly as the focus ring was removed in Step One.
5. Once focused; Mark the back of the module with a sharpie to indicate the horizontal orientation of the rectangular beam.
5a. Consider a drop of Loc-Tight Light (get it on eBay) on the brass lens assembly to keep it locked in place. Remove excess with Q-Tip.
6. Caution, the modules get hot so flip-on & flip-off just long enough to observe the beam spot on the wall.
7. Instal the acrylic emitter perfectly square and aligned in the aluminum nozzle.
8. A 12mm aluminum rod, with a groove filed at last 1 1/2 inches on the LONG side, makes a great emitter fixture, get the rod on eBay.
9. The groove releases any suction that occurs from the vaseline and the post the EPOXY setting of the acrylic emitter.
10. NOTE: Groove is very important in 12mm aluminum rod.
11. Prior to using this rod-fixture with acrylic emitter and epoxy; coat with vaseline as a glue bond-breaker or the rod will get glued to the aluminum emitter.
12. Secure the vaseline coated 12mm rod in a vise LEVEL ALL WAYS, next slide the aluminum nozzle onto the rod, now coat the interior of the aluminum-nozzle emitter hole lightly with epoxy and slide in the emitter giving it a gentle twist (JUST ONE TWIST) to spread the epoxy evenly. Check for alignment and squareness.
12a. After the epoxy sets a few hours; check to see the hole is 100% clear; if not clean out from back with a 5/32 inch drill bit, but by hand (no power tools this step).
13. Install the module in the nozzle so the sharpie-line is in-line with the set-screw securement hole (you must tap the pre drilled hole and provide the No. 8-32 set screw).
14. Snug the set-screw (not gorilla tight).
15. If you observe Splash (splash is the beam coming out straight BUT ALSO bouncing off the interior-wall or the emitter hole) the tips of exacto blades make good shims just insert and snap-off AND YOU CAN usually get the splash to go away.

If results are not good the problems are most likely (1) focus LSR module chrome focus ring was not removed, (2) LSR 12mm module is too far back in aluminum nozzle as; the focus ring is in-the-way OR, the module is out-of-tolerance and, or the acrylic emitter is glued-in too far back and lastly, (3) the acrylic was installed a little crooked. Troubleshoot and try try again.

CLICK EXPLODED PHASER LSR 12mm SLIDESHOW
CLICK AA/DS PHASER-LSR 12mm HOW-TO
CLICK TOS-PHASER FIN FINISHING
CLICK TOS-PHASER SIDE-RAIL FINISHING
CLICK FOR LSR 12mm eBay SHOP DTR-LPF


METAL PARTS; Prior to use, all Metal Parts MUST be cleaned to remove machine coolant residue. Use dishwashing detergent such as Dawn or Palmolive to insure a clean part.

Some Star Trek Prop History For Inquiring Minds:


Most of these Prop Makers and Technicians have passed-on.

Below are old-timer accounts of convention conversations before conventions were really a fad. (all 2nd hand stories)

The persons quoted worked for; the studio.


Mr. Bob Stone was Star Trek's machinist and made all the metal prop parts for all three seasons of the show. Parts were made to order for each episode as in those times (the 1960’s) as machining was done by hand and there was no advantage to making short runs (and no studio funding either). Each episode had a specific budget. Speaking of budgets, Bob relied on his Star Trek friend Robert Archer (VP of Budgeting for the show) in getting a little leeway on the $ so he could do the best possible job. According to Bob there was no magic drum of Phaser Nozzles and every job was a mad-dash to meet the filming deadlines.

Because parts were made only to order, parts varied quite a bit. These variations can be seen in all the surviving examples of TOS hand props from Phaser to Communicators and Tricorders. Sometimes it was not that a new design was needed but rather that when one Wings it from a sketch, in a hurry using what is on-hand, you get an unintended-new-version of something (in the 1960’s the TV audience never could see that).

Robert Archer and Bob Stone worked closely together so when the show was cancelled suddenly in season three, Robert Archer ended up with a nice collection of hand props.


Richard Heimer made the molds for hand props. He also did all the casting and forming. This included; Vacuum form bucks, Fiberglass molds and, urethane molds. Again, according to him most work is done in the normal Hollywood maddening rush. He shared with his convention friends that there were many molds made from molds when the production schedule demanded this. He also shared that when the show ended he rescued the molds from being discarded by putting them in his garage.


James Ruggs (b. 1919) was the director of special effects for the show. He handled and repaired many of the props on-set. When the show was cancelled in season three he rescued many hand props and even some models from the scrap heap. Dick Ruben, Prop & Art Assistant on the show, got his Set-Used Klingon disruptor from James. Mr. Ruggs held on to his rather large Star Trek collection for many years. It is widely known that Greg Jein got his Holy-Grail Hero Phaser from James.


In closing a nod to Mr. Ruck, a prop technician, who reported that he repaired some hand props hundreds of times as they were often damaged during filming. He had also shared that the fiberglass Mid-Grade’s, and some other props often used basswood strips between the seams to establish uniform dimensions. Watch some YouTube Star Trek TOS bloopers to see what he was talking when it comes to repairs and hand props flying apart.


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