Product Specifications:

Type:Starter

New/Refurbish:New

Power Rating:1.7 KW

Voltage:12 V

Number of Teeth:11

ROTATION:CW

SPECS:for Bosch PMGR

Design:PMGR

OE Part Number: 19308N

Items Included:1x Starter - 19308N

Note:12V, 1.7 KW, 11T, CW

 

Part Numbers:

19308N

Fit for:

 

Notes：
1. Please check through compatibility table, description and photos before making order. 
2. Instruction not included, please refer to a factory/shop manual or consult with professionals before installation.

 

Fault check:
The starter often has failures and phenomena that cannot rotate or rotate slowly. In this case, check the following aspects:

1. The battery has no electricity or the electricity is weak, so the starter cannot rotate or rotate slowly.

2. The starter thread is loose or off, and the switch or adsorption switch fails.

3. The brush is worn out or the brush surface is not correct, and the spring is weak, resulting in poor contact of the rectifier.

4. Excitation coil or armature coil is short-circuited or disconnected.

5. The rectifier is fouled and the mica sheet is protruding, causing poor contact between the brush and the rectifier. Organization maintenance

In the process of starting the engine, the starter must draw in 344~400Ah from the battery. Therefore, in order to prevent the battery from over-current or damage, the starting time should not exceed 5s. In winter, it is easy to start difficult to start. Multiple starting times should not be too long, and appropriate intervals should be left in each starting.

 

How to Install a Starter:

Part 1: Removing a Bad Starter

(1).Disconnect the battery before servicing the electrical system. Note: not need to remove the positive cable on the battery.

(2).Jack up the vehicle on firm, level ground.

(3).Locate the starter which attached to starter solenoid.

 

(4).Disconnect the wiring to the solenoid by disconnecting the wiring clamps or loosening the bolts or screws that hold the wires.

(5).Remove the starter retaining bolts then the starter. Note: use the correct size socket, otherwise you risk damaging the bolts.

(6).Compare the new starter to the old one. Ensure that the new starter is correct. Note:New starter solenoids often come with four terminals, but can be used with only two.

 

Part 2: Installing a New Starter

(7).Insert the starter retainer bolts.
Make sure the bolts are tight so they can’t vibrate loose while the engine is running.

(8).Connect the wiring to the starter solenoid.
With the starter secured in place, reconnect the wiring you disconnected from the old starter onto the terminals on the new one. If your new solenoid has four terminals but your old one had two, only utilize the top and bottom terminal on the new solenoid. If your old one had four and the new one does as well, connect them to the same terminals they were connected to on the old one.
 

(9).Reconnect the battery.
With the starter installed and wired, reconnect the black cable to the negative terminal on the battery and tighten it in place. Insert the key into the ignition and attempt to start the vehicle. If the vehicle fails to start with the new starter in place, ensure the battery is fully charged.

 

(10).Listen to the vehicle as you attempt to start it.
As you turn the key in the ignition, listen for the sounds the engine makes to help determine if you have an issue with your starter. If the engine makes no sound whatsoever, or you hear only a faint clicking, it may be because there isn’t enough power reaching the electric starter motor.
 

(11).Ensure the battery terminals are clean and secure.Charge your vehicle’s battery. 
A weak connection from the battery can prevent the engine from starting.
Wear gloves when cleaning battery terminals to avoid getting battery acid on your skin.

If you suspect the battery may simply be low on power, try charging it using either a trickle charger or another vehicle to jump start it. Be sure to connect the red cable to the positive terminal on each vehicle and the black to the negative.
 

(12).Check to see the starter solenoid is bad.
If the test light does not light up, it means power is not reaching the starter motor due to a faulty solenoid or a dead battery.
If the test light does light up, it means the solenoid is good, but the starter itself may have failed.

 

 

Frequently Asked Questions:

 

(1).Why is my car starter burning out?
You likely cranked the starter for too long.

 

(2).I have to change the starter fairly often in my car. What could be causing this?
A leak of some sort could be fouling the starter if fluid is dripping on it. If that's the case,

replacing the starter doesn't fix the leak so it's only a matter of time before the new starter fails.

 

(3).What is the black wire connected to?
He black wire can be commonly associated with the wire that connects the battery to the ignition.

If this is not the wire that you are referring to then it could be a random wire that has been detached from your fuse box?

How big is this wire? If it is rather stout then that would be your battery cables. If it is a small wire then it could be several different things.

Follow it and find the origin of the wire, it could be a simple fix just take a look at it.

 

(4).What does a bad starter sound like?
In my case, there was very little noise when the ignition was turned, and all that was heard was a distinctive click.

One really common sign is if you see any smoke coming from the starter.

 

(5).If my car is grinding when I turn the key, does that mean I have a bad starter?
No. It's your flywheel. When you start your car the grinding noise would be your flywheel that's connected to the starter.