VIDEO PIZZA TRILOGY (97 min DVD)
BREAD BAKING TIPS -
It's "ALWAYS THE YEAST".
Having problems with your bread rising? It is "ALWAYS
THE YEAST". When you purchase a two pound package of active dry yeast or
a one pound package of instant yeast, also known as bread machine yeast, proof it. Put two cups of water at 110 degrees in a bowl. Actually measure the
temperature of the water with a candy thermometer. Sprinkle in one tablespoon of
yeast. Do not stir the yeast. After five minutes the yeast should
start to bloom, blossom, grow, foam, froth and bubble. At seven minutes the yeast
should look like the picture. If the yeast does not bloom, consider taking it back to the
store. It may very well be bad or sub-par yeast.
Bad
or sub-par yeast is more common than you might
think. It is not your imagination if all of a sudden your bread stops rising like it
used to, or comes out undercooked in spots, seems doughy, takes longer than usual to rise
or seems to have "clumps" - most of it rises, but some spots are dough balls.
Your first reaction might be to think you did something wrong. That's natural,
but if you have been making bread for years and all of a sudden things just stop
working, let me tell you right now in no uncertain terms that the problem is the
yeast - period! It is not you. It is the yeast. Either the yeast is sub-par or
you did not soak it at the right temperature or you did not use enough. I
assume, since you are an experienced baker, that you soaked your yeast and used
enough and again it is the yeast itself - period! I promote bread baking and don't like to see the novice or anyone else discouraged
because of bad/poor quality yeast.
Recently, I had to purchase yeast at
three different stores to find good really active yeast. After purchasing two one pound packages
of name brand instant yeast, my bread did not rise well, was doughy and seemed under
cooked. The yeast did not proof. The same store had only one package of active
dry yeast on the shelf and it was punctured. I took the yeast back and purchased a
one pound package of a lesser known brand name instant yeast. It worked, but did not
proof and gave me a slower rise than I was used to.
I went to a national membership store and
purchased two one pound packages of the other name brand instant yeast. My bread did
not rise well, was doughy and seemed under cooked. The yeast did not proof. I
took it back. Again, it was not my imagination. The yeast was not the good
really active yeast that I was looking for and was used to working with.
I went to another national membership
store and purchased a two pound package of national brand active dry yeast. It
proofed really well. It was good yeast and really active. Again I have great fully risen loaves with a fast rising time.
Thank God I'm not a beginner. How easy it would be to get discouraged if you
happened upon bad/slow rising yeast.
This experience is not that unusual.
The last time I purchased yeast, I ended up with a bad two pound package of
name brand active dry yeast - it did not proof at all. As a matter of principle I
returned the yeast and got my money back. In all these examples the expiration dates, when given,
were good. The bags were not punctured. The yeast was not active enough for my
liking. The
frequency of finding bad/slow rising yeast being sold to the unsuspecting consumer is
higher than you might expect. The results can be so damaging to someone getting
started.
Again, it is "ALWAYS THE
YEAST". Salt has no function in your bread other than flavoring the bread - if
you have a problem you can rule out the salt. Sweetener is optional, you don't need
any at all - if you have a problem you can rule out the sweetener. Oil is optional
also - rule out the oil. Flour types do make a big difference, but that's another
story. If you don't know if your problem is yeast or flour, make a sample loaf of
white bread using any type of white flour - you will rule out flour as your problem.
Again, it is "ALWAYS THE YEAST".
I know
bread baking to be a craft. It takes time and experience to become an artisan
bread baker. Here is something I have found that shows you will never
know it all. There is always more to learn. When you first buy a bag of yeast and proof
the bag that is not necessarily the end
of the story. It has been my experience that some bags of yeast that do not
proof well are sub-par and that other bags will proof better over time. Some
yeast companies claim that the foaming that we look for while proofing is from
additives and does not affect the rising properties of the yeast. Who knows what to
believe? That is where experience in the craft comes into play. To be safe, I
hunt down fast acting yeast that proofs really well and I get consistent
results. I suggest that you do the same. When I find a really active batch, I
have been known to purchase several bags. They are sealed well, don't need to be
refrigerated and will keep arguably almost indefinitely.
BREAD BAKING TIPS - USING
ENOUGH YEAST?
Are you using enough yeast? Try using 50% more yeast.
Years ago a packet of yeast measured a full tablespoon. Today a packet of yeast
measures less than two teaspoons. That's right - years ago there was 50% more yeast
in a packet. Pricing pressures have forced companies to reduce package size in a
variety of industries. A year ago, my favorite yogurt came in an 8 ounce container;
today it is in a 6 ounce container. The cost is still the same. Why
do they call it inflation when the packages get smaller? Go figure!
The major yeast companies contend that
today's yeast is more active and therefore, not as much yeast is required to make a loaf
of bread. This may be true, but I have found that using more yeast gives me a bigger
fuller loaf of bread and the bread baking process takes considerably less time. All
my recipes use one full tablespoon of yeast or one and one half packets of yeast.
Try it and see for yourself. No more letting the dough rise covered, in a warm
place, etc. No more waiting more than an hour for dough to rise. With more
yeast, second rising time is generally only 30 minutes. Using more yeast really
works - much faster rising times and bigger fuller loaves.
A good rule of thumb is one full
tablespoon of yeast for every 4 to 4 1/2 cups of flour. If your recipe calls for a
tablespoon of yeast make sure that you use a full tablespoon or one and one half packets
of yeast.
BREAD BAKING TIPS - BUYING
YEAST
I always buy my yeast in quantity. The price difference is incredible and
it lasts for well over a year when stored properly. You do not need to
refrigerate and unopened package. Just keep it in your pantry. Don't let it get
too hot or too cold.
A quarter ounce packet of yeast cost
about 75 cents, US, in the grocery store. A two pound loaf of bread uses one and one
half packets of yeast. That is a yeast cost of more than one dollar, US, per loaf. You may as well buy your bread at a bakery.
The quarter ounce packets are just too expensive.
Yeast is less expensive when purchased in
four ounce jars, but still costs too much. A four ounce jar contains 16 quarter
ounce portions of yeast. A quarter ounce portion of yeast costs about 55 to 50
cents, US. The yeast required to make a two pound loaf of bread costs about
75
cents, US. This is still no bargain by anyone's standards by anyone's
standards.
Active dry yeast is available in two
pound packages. Two pounds of yeast is 32 ounces of yeast or 128 quarter ounce
portions of yeast. The cost of a two pound package is about three dollars, US, in a
membership store. Three dollars divided by 128 portions gives us a cost of 2.3
cents, US, a packet/quarter ounce portion. Since we use one and one half quarter
ounce packets per loaf, that would be about 3.5 cents yeast cost per loaf. What a
cost savings! Buying yeast in quantity is the only way to go. Compare the
price: YEAST COST - OVER ONE DOLLAR PER LOAF vs. 3.5 CENTS PER LOAF! That is 1/28th
the price!
You might say to yourself that I will
never use that much yeast. You don't have to - it pays for itself. Here is
another way of looking at it. Once you have made three loaves of bread the rest of
the yeast is free. Follow the logic. One two pound loaf of bread uses one and
one half packets of yeast, at a cost of over one dollar. After making three loaves of
bread using yeast purchased in quarter ounce packets you have spent over three dollars on
yeast. You could have bought a two pound package of yeast for the same three
dollars and would now have 123.5 quarter ounce portions left. You could make 80 plus
loaves of bread with the yeast left over and not spend another cent on yeast.
Will it keep? Yes. I have
kept yeast for over a year and it was still good. I store my yeast in the
freezer once opened. A two pound package of yeast comes in a foil bag. Fold/squeeze the
air out of the bag and seal the top with a clip of some sort. The type of clip used
to seal an opened bag of potato chips works well.
When making bread, take the yeast out of
the freezer, use what's needed and put the yeast back immediately. Exposure to air,
oxygen, and temperature will steal the life of the yeast. If you forget and leave
the bag out open on the counter over night, part of the life of the yeast will
be lost. Get it out, use what's needed, fold the air out of the bag, seal the bag and then return
the yeast to the freezer right away.
Instant yeast, also known as bread baking
machine yeast, comes in one pound packages and goes for about the same price as active dry
yeast.
BREAD BAKING
TIPS - BAKING ISSUES & STONES
Baking
stones are fun to experiment with, but rarely needed in bread baking. I only use a baking
stone to stop the bottom from burning when making a large loaf that
requires extra baking time.
Baking stones are sometimes
misunderstood. Years ago, a friend of mine bought a pizza stone. The directions said to make the pizza on the stone and then put it in the
oven. That completely defeats the purpose of the stone. The whole idea of the
stone is to preheat the oven with the stone in the oven to get the stone hot.
The stone has mass and holds heat. Baking stones, pizza stones and oven bricks
all perform the same function. The theory is that you will get a better crust.
When using a baking stone, in
your home oven, you
are trying to simulate a brick oven. Stones are great, but you
can make "artisan" loaves in
your home oven without using a stone. You can get
a crusty loaf by varying the temperature at different stages of baking -
first hot, then normal and then leaving the bread in the oven at low heat to dry out.
When a loaf is finished baking it out gases hot vapors and wets itself. That is
why bread comes out of the oven crispy and then the crust seems to soften
as it sits for a while.
The only time I use a baking
stone is when I'm making a huge loaf. When the baking time is so long that the
bottoms would otherwise burn. The stone retards the cooking on the bottom of the
loaf. When I have bottom burning issues, I use a stone.
I make a seven pound loaf on a deep dish dark coated pizza pan.
It looks like something out of the middle ages. I bake the loaf for 52 minutes.
I use a stone to stop the bottom from burning because the loaf takes so long to
bake.
I also put a tin foil shield on top of the loaf, after 15 minutes, to stop the top
from burning.
Even pizza does not require a
pizza/baking stone. I use a dark coated pizza pan. Pan color really makes a
difference. When making a loaf of sandwich bread I always use dark pans and never
the silver pans. If you use silver bread baking pans, the bottoms of the loaves
will not cook properly. I don't even own silver pans.
Position in the oven also
affects the bottom. If you want something darker on the bottom then lower it in the
oven, closer to the element in your electric oven. If you want less dark then raise
it in the oven. If you have top burning issues, cover with tin foil after the
loaves are browned to your liking.
Baking stones are great to
experiment with, but very rarely required in bread baking. You may discover
how to make your perfect loaf. I use mine only for bottom
burning issues due to extended baking times on large loaves.
BREAD BAKING
TIPS - ACTIVE DRY YEAST vs. INSTANT YEAST
In
my opinion, active dry yeast produces better more consistent results for home
bakers than the newer instant yeast. Active dry yeast has been around since WW
II. Active dry yeast needs to be "activated" by soaking it in warm water when
making bread. Active dry yeast can be used when making bread by hand, using a
bread machine or using a mixing machine.
Instant yeast, also known as
quick yeast or bread baking machine yeast, has been around for about 15 years.
Instant yeast was developed with commercial baking in mind, not the home baker.
Instant yeast is added to the dry ingredients in big mixing machines at
commercial bakeries. Instant yeast is also added to the dry ingredients in a
home bread machine.
Control of temperature is the
key to successful baking at home or commercially. In commercial baking the big
mixing machines create friction and produce needed heat. When making bread at
home in a bread machine the heating element turns on during the mixing
process and adds the needed heat to activate the instant yeast. When making
bread by hand, if you use instant yeast, there is not enough heat in the process
to produce big full loaves, even if you soak the instant yeast in warm water.
Instant yeast and active dry yeast are not the same. Active dry yeast was designed for home baking. That is why I use and recommend the
old standard active dry yeast. When using active dry yeast I am in full control
of the bread baking process and I get consistent results.
Most home bakers in Europe are
using instant yeast for hand bread baking and bread machine use. I do not
recommend instant yeast for home baking by hand. Can a whole continent be doing
it wrong? Who knows? I have heard stories of people in the UK preheating their
flour before making bread. That is indicative of temperature problems when using
instant yeast. You do not have to preheat flour when using active dry yeast.
In the US, two major brands of
yeast are available - Red Star and Fleishman's. Red Star sells a two pound
package of the good old fashioned Active Dry Yeast. That is what I use and
recommend. Fleishman's sell a two pound package of what they call Instant Active
Dry Yeast. Is it instant yeast or is it active try yeast? Again, who knows? I have found that the good old fashioned active dry yeast
produces better more consistent results in home baking.
BREAD BAKING
TIPS - WHOLE MILK MOZZARELLA FOR PIZZA
It is getting harder and harder
for the consumer to find good mozzarella cheese for making pizza at home. I live
on the west coast and I now have to special order whole milk mozzarella cheese.
All the stores are carrying is skim milk mozzarella. The skin milk cheese does
not melt properly and has no pull. If a novice tries making a pizza with skim
milk cheese they will be disappointed and think that you can't make good pizza
at home. I make better pizza than I can buy. Hot, fresh, the way I like it from
my own oven.
Ask your store to carry whole
milk mozzarella cheese. If you have to, special order it. I just bought a case
today that I had to special order. It cost me $50 for four 5 lb bags. I freeze
it. When I am ready to make a pizza I take a bag out of my freezer and smash it
with my rolling pin to break up enough cheese to use. It works fine. The cheese
is just going to melt anyway.
I have had problems getting
good parmesan cheese also. Some brands have no flavor and don't melt in cooking.
The shredded parmesan seems to be ok, but again it depends on the brand.
We consumers need to be more
assertive with our local stores. If you have a problem in your area getting
quality cheese, go in and talk to the manager and ask them to stock better
quality cheese. It's out there. Complaining never hurts. If they won't stock
good whole milk mozzarella or good parmesan cheese then start looking around.
Once you find a source you will be set. Look in your phone book yellow pages for
food brokers, wholesalers and distributors. Make some phone calls. If they are
not into pizza supplies ask who in your area is.
BREAD BAKING
TIPS - Pizza: Thick Crust vs. Thin Crust
Thin crust pizza is default pizza. If you don't know what you are doing
you will end up with thin crust pizza by default.
I was raised in Upstate New York. Thin crust pizza
was very popular. New York City is famous for their thin crust pizza. On the
other hand, Chicago is famous for their thicker crust deep dish pizza. Thick
crust vs. thin crust is all about personal taste. Producing a thick crust vs.
thin crust pizza is about how and when you make the dough. I have had people
ask me for my secret dough recipe. Dough is dough. There is no secret to dough.
Dough is flour and water and yeast and salt and maybe some oil and maybe some
seasoning.
Yeast baking is a craft. There are a number of variables in making pizza. The
type of flour used makes a big difference. The temperature of the dough making
and storage are variables. The amount and type of yeast are variables. The
time from mixing and kneading till the pizza is put into the hot oven is a
variable. All variables relate to the type of oven used. There are many types of
commercial ovens and then there is the basic home oven. The amount of oil used
to coat the pan, whether or not a corn meal coating is used and the temperature
of the oven are all variables. Whether you use a pan at all is based on the type
of commercial oven and whether or not you use a stone and peel in a home oven.
There are many variables. You have choices based on your hardware - the oven,
pan, stone, etc.
It's really not that complicated. You get what you get. I advise people going
into the pizza business to start with the oven. The pizza you will be serving is
based on your choice of oven type and size. Home ovens are home ovens. Gas vs.
electric does not matter. Commercial ovens run a lot hotter than home ovens and
may heat up to 800 degrees. They are really hot because they need to serve
customers fast. Home ovens don't need to get that hot because we can wait a
little longer for our pizza.
Back to thick vs. thin. In a commercial operation it's all based on work flow.
Same thing goes at home. A lot of pizza shops don't make their own dough. They
buy their dough. It shows up once a day in the morning in trays with lids
holding six balls of dough. Shops that do make their own dough make it once a
day early and store the dough for later use in the same trays. When it's time to
make a pizza they take a ball of dough and press it out on a pan or hand toss it
or just spread it out by hand and put on the ingredients and into the oven. The
work flow I have just described generally produces a thin crust pizza. The yeast
in the dough becomes partially played out over time and therefore the dough
won't rise that much in the oven. To make thin crust at home I make my dough in
the morning and let it sit in the fridge all day before I make my pizza. If I
wait till the next day I will get a really thin crust pizza. Some pizza shops
keep dough for a few days. These are thin crust operations.
I call thin crust default pizza because a novice who does not know how to
work with yeast and does not activate the yeast properly will end up with a thin crust
pizza and very happy - by default. When I make thick crust pizza, I use freshly
made dough. I prefer thicker crust pizza. It's just that simple and it's faster
to make at home. I make the dough, make the pizza, eat the pizza - no waiting.
For pizza shops it's about work flow and marketing. There was an advertising
battle going between two really large pizza chains. One claimed to have fresh
dough, the other aged dough. It went to court and they are probably still
fighting now. No way of making dough is better than another. It's based on
personal taste and the work flow of the operation. You can make either thin
crust or thick crust at home in a home oven. It's all about personal taste. It's
also about knowing the craft of yeast baking. If you don't know the craft, you
will produce thin crust pizza by default.
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