An exceptional Luigi Borrelli Napoli walking coat / short overcoat, handmade in Italy from a luxurious blend of 74% virgin wool and 26% cotton. Finished in a sophisticated blue and black houndstooth / puppytooth pattern, this is quintessential Neapolitan style — elegant and beautifully made, but deliberately soft and relaxed rather than stiff or overly formal.
Luigi Borrelli is one of the great names of Neapolitan menswear, and this coat perfectly captures what I love about clothing from Naples. There is an effortless quality to it: traditional craftsmanship and beautiful fabric combined with a lighter, more natural way of wearing tailored clothing.
The proportions sit beautifully between a traditional walking coat and a shorter overcoat. At approximately 34 inches in length, it has enough presence to look elegant over tailoring while remaining considerably easier and more casual to wear than a long formal overcoat. The slightly slimmer silhouette gives the coat a particularly clean and contemporary line.
The construction is especially appealing. The coat is completely unlined, allowing the wool-and-cotton cloth to drape naturally and giving the garment the lightness and softness associated with Southern Italian tailoring. It also makes the interior construction visible — something I particularly appreciate in beautifully made Italian clothing.
The fabric is superb. The combination of virgin wool and cotton gives the cloth warmth and refinement while retaining a slightly more relaxed, tactile character than a conventional pure-wool overcoat. The blue and black houndstooth — almost a refined puppytooth in scale — gives the surface wonderful texture and depth.
For me, houndstooth will always be ahead of fashion rather than simply in fashion. It is one of the great patterns of classic menswear and has looked sophisticated for generations. In this subtle blue-and-black combination, it becomes particularly versatile: distinctive when viewed up close, yet understated enough to wear constantly.
The finishing remains beautifully restrained, with luxury horn buttons and a classic button-front closure. The collar can be worn traditionally folded down or turned up against the wind, which gives the coat an especially cool, relaxed Neapolitan character.
Wear it over a navy or charcoal suit with a white shirt and tie, or lean into its Italian character with a fine-gauge turtleneck, tailored trousers and loafers. Personally, I think it would look equally fantastic worn casually over a white shirt or knit with dark denim and suede shoes. The shorter length and unlined construction make it extremely easy to dress up or down.
A superb example of understated Neapolitan luxury — beautiful natural fibres, soft unlined construction, horn buttons and one of the most timeless patterns in menswear. This is the kind of coat that doesn't need to chase fashion because it will continue looking sophisticated for decades.
Details
Brand: Luigi Borrelli Napoli
Style: Walking Coat / Short Overcoat / Car Coat
Colour: Blue & Black
Size: 48 EU / 38 US
Fit: Slim / Tailored Fit
Material: 74% Virgin Wool & 26% Cotton
Pattern: Houndstooth / Puppytooth
Construction: Lightweight, Soft Construction
Lining: Fully Unlined
Front: Classic Button-Front Closure
Collar: Classic Collar – Can Be Worn Up or Down
Buttons: Luxury Horn Buttons
Length: Short Overcoat / Walking-Coat Length
Style: Traditional Neapolitan-Inspired Tailoring
Craftsmanship: Handmade in Italy
Condition: Brand New With Tags
Made in Italy
Approx. Measurements
Shoulders: 17.7 in / 45 cm
Chest: 20.8 in / 52.8 cm
Waist: 20 in / 50.8 cm
Sleeve: 26 in / 66 cm
Length: 34 in / 86.6 cm