An exceptional Santaniello double-breasted sports coat, handmade in Salerno in Southern Italy from a beautifully crisp 73% wool and 27% mohair cloth. It combines the foundations of classic Neapolitan tailoring with a distinctly modern attitude — exactly the sort of jacket that can remain in a wardrobe for decades.
Santaniello is a company I particularly love. Their clothing is made in Salerno, just south of Naples, drawing heavily on the traditions of Neapolitan tailoring: soft construction, minimal padding, lightness and an emphasis on hand craftsmanship rather than rigid structure.
One of the most beautiful details is the famous Neapolitan “Spalla Camicia” (shirt shoulder) construction. This highly skilled technique allows the sleeve to sit naturally into the armhole with a soft, relaxed appearance rather than the heavily padded and structured shoulder found in more traditional tailoring. Combined with the jacket's deconstructed and completely unlined construction, it gives the coat an incredibly natural drape and makes it exceptionally comfortable to wear.
The fabric is equally special. The wool and mohair blend has the crisp, dry handle associated with fresco-style tailoring cloth, while the mohair introduces a subtle lustre and additional structure. It feels wonderfully crisp in the hand and helps the jacket retain a sharp silhouette despite its soft Neapolitan construction.
Stylistically, this is a jacket I think every man should have in his wardrobe. The navy double-breasted sports coat is one of the great staples of classic menswear, but this particular example is far from conservative. The slightly washed character of the navy, the dramatic sweep of the peak lapels and the visible hand pick-stitching give an otherwise timeless design a much more contemporary personality.
The traditional six-button double-breasted front, peak lapels, patch pockets and double-vented back make it incredibly versatile. Wear it traditionally with a white or pale blue shirt, grey tailored trousers and loafers, or more casually with a white T-shirt, denim or chinos and suede loafers or minimal sneakers. The unstructured construction makes it particularly good for relaxed tailoring where you want to look elegant without appearing overly formal.
A beautiful example of modern Southern Italian tailoring — classic enough to wear indefinitely, but with enough character in the cloth, lapels, construction and hand finishing to make it something considerably more interesting than an ordinary navy blazer.
Details
Brand: Santaniello
Style: Double-Breasted Sports Coat / Blazer
Colour: Navy Blue
Size: 48 EU / 38 US
Material: 73% Wool & 27% Mohair
Fabric: Crisp Fresco-Style Wool & Mohair Cloth with Subtle Lustre
Construction: Deconstructed & Unlined
Shoulder: Neapolitan “Spalla Camicia” / Shirt Shoulder
Front: Classic 6-Button Double-Breasted
Lapels: Sweeping Peak Lapels
Pockets: Patch Pockets
Interior: 3 Inside Pockets
Rear: Double Vents
Detailing: Hand Pick-Stitching
Craftsmanship: Handmade Italian Tailoring
Condition: Brand New With Tags
Made in Italy – Salerno
Approx. Measurements
Shoulders: 17.4 in / 44.5 cm
Chest: 20.5 in / 52 cm
Waist: 20 in / 51 cm
Sleeve: 25 in / 64 cm
Length: 28.2 in / 72 cm