There is a myth that one belt fits 95% of all Reel to Reels. In reality, nothing is further from the truth. It is also a myth that all TEAC Reel to Reels take the same belt!!! Ha! This is not even the same belt that fits most of the TEAC X-Series. A belt that is ½ inch too large or small will probably run on your open reel deck, but if it is too small, , there may be too much little pressure pulling the tape, it will wear out your motor years before it would under normal conditions. If it is too large, there may be too little pressure pulling the tape, and it might also be bad for the motor, but as belts get older, they expand, so in the best case, you need a replacement years before you should. Either way, it is bad.

There are people online who have been selling belts for 10-15 years. Many have lots of feedback or have websites that look like they know what they are doing. Do they really know what belt is the match for your open reel? TEAC quit giving technical support on the models X300 and X300R (including part numbers) over a decade ago. When the models X-300, and X-300R rolled off the assembly line, I was Assistant Store Manager for the largest independent TEAC dealer in the Southeastern US. My information came from the TEAC Factory Repair Station in Atlanta, Georgia (note, I did not say factory authorized repair station, those were private companies in Atlanta, like HENCO and Norman's.) My information came from Yoshi, the man that ran the TEAC Repair center, his training was from TEAC Corporation in Tokyo (TEAC is an acronym for Tokyo Electronic Acoustic Company. I have fond memories of Yoshi driving his bright yellow Trans-AM up and down Buford Highway at speeds that were significantly above the speed limit! He loved that car. Read the Seller History below for more information.

(In case you are wondering, I really do know that the dash in the model number comes after the X. I enter the model with the dash in different so those who search for the model can find it regardless of if they have the dash in their search!)

1. Length is the one most people think of right away. Length affects how tight the belt is. If it is too tight, the motor will not run (or if it is just a little too tight, the motor will wear out quickly).

2. Width is one you might not think is important, however, the manufacturers specify this one down to the 64^th of an inch! If the belt is too wide, the risk is the belt will hit the outsides of the capstan, which will create momentary bumps in the speed. If the belt is too narrow, it does not have enough contact with the capstan, causing it to slip. Either of these problems may be inaudible at first, but as the belt ages, who knows?

3. Thickness of the belt is the smallest of the measurements. Most Turntable belts are close to the same thickness, but an el cheapo parts provider, who has only a decade of experience, might buy their belts based on length and get the one that costs them less regardless of the thickness that meets original specifications. You could get a belt that they bought wholesale at 99¢ but is way too thick! A belt that is too thick will not fully fold around the capstan, causing more pitch problems. If you call to complain, you are told that your turntable has natural Wow and Flutter.

   Don't let them pull the wool over your eyes! If you hear wow and flutter (a.k.a. bad speed fluctuation), you might just have the wrong size belt! Friends: These models are closed-loop, dual capstan. Wow and Flutter is sixteen (16) times below the audible limit (½ of 1% wow and flutter is not audible with normal music -- Sources: Julian Hirsch - Hirsch-Houck Labs and the TEAC models X-300 and X300R Service Manuals.).

4. External Diameter . This one is a no-brainer, it is closely related to the thickness and internal diameter.

5. Internal Diameter. Like #4, this one is also a no-brainer, it is closely related to the thickness and external diameter.