If the grips on the clubs advertised on this listing are in really bad condition or you want them regripped for any other reason and you are paying a club pro or golf shop to do that for you then it may be worth reading the following first. I also recommend reading this if you would be interested in regripping clubs yourself and haven’t done so before.
If you are fussy or care about anything mentioned below then it’s worth mentioning to who you are paying to do the job before they do it so you are in a better position to ask them to re-do it for free it if it’s not done right the first time. Your handicap is irrelevant. A 50 handicapper is entitled to the same re-gripping service as the best amateur golfer at your club who also likely earns $0 from playing golf unless they are a youTuber. Their golf is no more important than yours. You deserve to have golf grips put on properly if you would like them on properly and you are paying someone £3-5 per grip to do it for you.
Just to learn from my mistakes when paying people to regrip clubs:
When I was 17 (in 2010), I paid to get three of my clubs regripped in a proshop and this was at a very big name golf club near my hometown. If regripping was an issue at this proshop, then it could be an issue anywhere.
I was getting three clubs regripped (driver, 3 wood and putter). All three grips were pushed fully onto the shafts but there were other issues so I never got clubs regripped there again. At the time, I wasn’t confident enough (particularly at that club) to go back into the shop and ask them to redo it or ask for money back.
If I were a very low handicapped amateur golfer at this club, it would have been very unlikely that this would have happened to me but I should have received the same service as if I were a very low handicapped golfer because I was paying the same amount of money regardless.
I asked for two standard size golf pride tour velvet grips (driver and 3 wood). One of the grips that was put on was ribbed (the 3 wood). (I forgot to ask for round). I wasn’t offered round or ribbed and I forgot to ask for round- my mistake.
A ribbed golf grip has a ridge on the underside of the grip which some golfers like and some golfer don’t. I actually liked the ribbed grip but the grip wasn’t put on straight so the rib wasn’t in the correct position. It’s the same problem with ‘align Golf Pride grips’. I often see on those that they are either not in the right position ie not on the underside of the grip when the club is in the address position (and the clubface is square) or the grips are on a bit twisted in which case the ‘align’ ridge is not straight, which defeats the purpose of those very expensive grips if they aren’t on right.
The ridge is supposed to help you grip the clubs properly. It should be dead straight on the underside of the grip unless you prefer it slightly off centre as if the clubface is slightly open or closed at address. The most common mistake with align grips not being on right is because the regripper has not checked both top and bottom of the grip while the grips are still moveable (before the grip solvent dries).
One of the grips that I got regripped had a jumbo sized grip put on it (on my driver). I had a lesson with the head pro a year later who questioned why I had a jumbo sized grip because I had a fade/ slice problem at the time and I told him that someone in his shop did it for me when I asked for standard which lead to an awkward moment. I gripped down my driver a bit to turn it into a standard size grip. That kind of worked and it actually wasn’t a big deal for me at the time because actually, my 45 inch driver was too long for my liking anyway. Many tour pros actually have their driver at shorter than standard length. 45 or 46 inches can decrease accuracy with no extra clubhead speed. Tiger played a 43 inch driver in 2000 but that was with a steel shaft. Jimmy Walker (who won the 2016 PGA) played a 42 inch driver at one point and he’s 6 foot 2. The issue with gripping down on drivers is that the club feels a bit lighter. You basically make the club lighter by doing so. The swing weight changes as well and the shaft becomes a bit stiffer which may be an issue but it wasn’t much of an issue for me because as a skinny 17 year old my driver was a little too heavy for my liking anyway at the full length 45 inches. Gripping down helped with that but I still would have preferred a standard size grip on it at the full length if I had the choice.
I had my putter regripped with a Golf Pride grip that wasn’t put on straight. It was significantly off centre when the club was at address position which really annoyed me but I was that frugal that I just used it anyway. It was a standard design putter grip with a mostly flat top to it so with those grips it’s important to to put them on straight.
I played with all three clubs straight away after getting them back from the pro shop but I recommend waiting at least 24 hours after regripping before playing with the clubs. Don’t put the clubs straight into your golf bag or sticky/ greasy grip solvent will probably leak into your bag out of the holes in the ends of the grips if the solvent hasn’t dried. I think I got lucky in 2010 because the clubs were likely regripped days before I collected them but I wasn’t told or warned about that in 2010 or in 2013 when I next got a club regripped at a different shop. I put the club straight into my golf bag and solvent leaked into my bag.
What I liked to do when regripping clubs was set clubs against the wall (grip end up with clubheads on the ground in a very upright position) to give the grip solvent a chance to fully dry and avoid leakage. You will be able to play with clubs straight away if you pick up clubs from the shop days after they regripped your clubs so a tip is get your clubs regripped at a time that you don’t plan to play golf again for several days. Maybe ask when collecting clubs when they put the grips on. If they are not sure, then be safe and don’t play with them straight away and don’t put them in your golf bag. Put the clubs horizontal in your car and take them home to make sure the grip solvent has dried before you play with them.
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What I notice sometimes with grips on clubs are that they haven’t been pushed on fully. If it’s not an experienced re-gripper who knows what they are doing or they are trying to do it as quick as possible, then it can result in some of the grip hanging off the end of the shaft which I would find annoying if it were me. It may be worth checking before getting the clubs regripped that they will be pushed fully onto the shafts. Grips hanging off the end of the shafts will only happen if you don’t bang/ push the ends of the grips down into the ground after putting pushing them onto the shafts. When doing that, some grip solvent can leak out onto the floor so you may want to put some cardboard or something down on the ground first.
Grips not being put on straight are much less of an issue with round grips compared to ribbed grips but even with round grips, if the grip is not on straight then the that alignment logos will not be on top of the grip when the club is in the address position. That’s a common issue but it depends on how fussy you are about any of this.
Grips can also be put on a bit twisted. Another common issue I see. Again, that’s more of an issue with a ribbed grip but it’s not ideal and it’s a bad regrip job and you would be entitled to ask for money back or for it to be re-done.
I used to regrip clubs and don’t currently do so because it’s time consuming to do it properly if you don’t have professional equipment like tour trucks have and I don’t particularly like doing it because it can be a bit messy with getting grip solvent on your clothes etc.
You can regrip clubs yourself easily at home if you know what to do but if you’ve never done it before it’s much less hassle to pay someone to do it unless it’s something you might like to do for yourself regularly in the future and you would like it done right then it’s worth learning how to do. You can teach yourself from youTube videos but in my opinion, many of the ones I watched don’t go into enough detail and don’t include all of the information written in this essay but they’re worth watching to see someone regrip a club and the technique involved. I will just give you more detail.
Do a YouTube search for ‘How to Regrip a Golf Club with Brampton HF-100 Grip Solvent’ but this video does not give you enough detail.
What you need are:
-Vice+ clamp plus rubber thing to put in between the vice to keep shaft in place. (You can buy vice + clamp that attaches to a table. You do not need one that is mounted to a workstation).
-Grip solvent (Brampton HF-100 is good. See below.)
-Heat gun to remove grip tape.
- Good quality grip tape.
-Vinyl gloves if you want to protect your hands if you have sensitive skin.
(You don’t even need a vice+clamp but it’s easier and quicker to do the job properly if you have one).
- Towel or kitchen roll.
You have to cut old grips off using the hooked blade knife. If the shaft is graphite, you will score it if you don’t cut the grip off correctly. You don’t want to dig the blade into the shaft. Have the blade at a bit of an angle to avoid that happening.
Brampton HF 100 solvent is very good compared to other solvents because of the following reasons:
-You don’t have to use as much of it compared to white spirits.
-It’s also odourless and non toxic.
-It also takes far longer to dry than other solvents so you have several minutes to check that the grip is on right after you put it on and you can make changes to the grip’s position on the shaft during that time if need be.
You spray Brampton HF-100 grip solvent onto the grip tape (instead of pouring like with with other solvents). You need something under the grip to catch excess solvent. If you have a suitable container, you can then re-use that excess for cost saving purposes if you would like but it’s not that expensive even if you don’t re-use it.) Grip solvent will drip onto the floor if you don’t have something under the grips. You could use a large cardboard box on the floor and put a big bin bag inside it or line the bottom of it or tape it using parcel tape with tinfoil etc. Like the good quality parcel tape that golf club businesses which are double the width of sellotape and much stickier.
If you don’t use enough HF100 solvent ie you don’t evenly coat all of the grip tape with the solvent then you will struggle to get the new grip on. You may only get half the grip on and then have to cut it off and waste a grip so too much is better than too little but the more you use, the longer it takes to dry. The man in the Brampton HF 100 video says at least 20 minutes but that’s not long enough. You need at least 24 hours based on my experience of using it.
If the grip tape is very sticky (like the pre cut grip tape strips supplied with ‘Champkey’ branded grips) then you have to use far more grip solvent and you have less time to make changes to grip positions after you have the grip on. I bought Champkey golf grips on a site run by JB as a pack of 13 grips that came with a re-grip kit with solvent (I didn’t use it). You had no option to buy the grips without the kit and it was still cheaper than what Gamola Golf was selling them at if you were buying 13. The regrip kit came with a hooked blade knife and the pre-cut grip tape strips were very very sticky as mentioned. An advantage of very sticky grip tapes are that they are better at keeping golf grips in position after the solvent dries ie no moving or twisting of the grips. This is much more of an issue if the ‘core’ size of the grips are slightly bigger than the shaft and it depends on how fussy you are about that.
When pushing golf grips on, grip solvent will leak/ spray out the ends of the grips so if you put kitchen roll or a towel on the ends of the grips before pushing them on then that will stop any solvent getting onto your clothes. Don’t use a tee in the ends of the grips because when you remove the tee solvent will all spray out.
Before putting on new golf grips, you’re supposed to remove previous grip tape under the grips. I used to use a heat gun in order to get it off but sometimes you can take it off easily without a heat gun just using you pr fingers to peel it off.
A time saving thing to do is to put new grip tape over the old grip tape which makes grips feel very slightly thicker but only slightly but if clubs are regripped multiple times then layer upon layer of grip tape under the grips will make the grips feel much thicker than they should be and also firmer.
Not removing grip tape becomes more of a problem if the previous grip tape has partially come off when removing the old grips in which case you could feel the unevenness under the grip when you are griping the clubs but some golfers may not notice it unless it’s multiple layers of grip tape that have partially come off.
You need a heat gun to heat up old tape to make it much easier to peel off but you can burn your fingers if you are not careful. Brampton’s ‘Uneek scraper’ has very mixed reviews. I haven’t used it but someone wrote words to the effect of that it only works for a short time before it stops working. In which case, you need a heat gun. I bought an alternate scraper blade to remove old grip tape but it was terrible even if you used a heat gun. Using your fingers was much better but you can burn fingers if not careful (after using the heat gun). You may have to use the heat gun multiple times to get the old grip tape hot enough to peel off easily. (It will cool down quickly).
You can buy re-grip kits which contain Brampton HF-100 solvent plus a spray bottle, the rubber thing to put between the vice to keep your club in place and avoid damaging shafts and a hooked blade knife to remove the old grips and individual grip tape strips pre-cut to the correct lengths. You don’t even need a vice + clamp but it’s much easier if you have one.
If you buy a big bottle of HF 100, you need a spray bottle to pour it into. Like the spray bottle ones for watering plants. You can buy those for cheap on eBay.
(I once bought a large bottle of Brampton HF 100 solvent off of eBay from a business seller who is on eBay as well and I was very sure that what they sold me was not Brampton HF 100 grip solvent. I bought a single golf grip from that seller one time which was not the size that I ordered. I returned it and left negative feedback about it being the wrong size. eBay removed it. Those were the only two items I bought from that seller. I mention eBay removing eBay feedback further below. The solvent came in an unbranded bottle and was a different consistency to the Brampton HF 100 solvent that I bought before (that came with a regrip kit in a spray bottle) and after (large bottle bought from Gamola Golf.) Two of the three bottles came with Brampton HF 100 logos on it. Brampton HF 100 is quality solvent so you want genuine HF 100 solvent.)
I would recommend Gamola Golf for old models of lamkin grips if they have any for sale. I bought 100 golf grips from them one time which were the old model of lamkin crossline 360 grips at a very good price compared to what the new model costs. I bought them on black friday so I got an extra 10% off. I paid £3.60 per grip after the discount. After I bought 100 of the grips at £4, they upped the price to £5. My apologies.
(The old model was still a very good quality lamkin grip and actually better than the new model in my opinion). I very carefully counted all 100 grips and the exact number was 99 and I was still pleased with my purchase. Gamola Golf used to sell old models of lamkin grips or lamkin grips with cobra or taylormade branding on them etc but they only have ladies grips advertised in October 2025. I would also recommend the golf grip tape rolls sold by Gamola Golf. I bought their cheapest one which was sticky enough but not not too sticky. The rolls are much better value for money than the pre-cut strips that come in the regrip kits if you plan on regripping many clubs yourself over the course of many years.
Grip tape can be good or bad quality. Some tape I bought was not sticky enough. It wouldn’t properly stay on the shafts and that tape will result in your grip not staying in position properly on the shaft throughout the golf swing ie some twisting of the grip but in writing that, I remember in a Titleist tour truck youTube video that Zach Johnson didn’t even like any grip tape under his grips. They would just use some ‘starter tape’ with him to get the grip on. I think the twisting issue is more of a problem if the shaft is not clean enough under the grip ie its too is greasy or has greasy old grip grip tape underneath it.
Golf grips from the top brands are very expensive but a problem with some of the cheaper brands are that some are not true to size compared to Golf Pride or Lamkin or they can have quality control problems ie imperfections in some of the grips that you wouldn’t get with any Golf Pride or Lamkin grip. You can be lucky or unlucky with the imperfections with the cheaper brands depending on what batch you get.
Golf Pride Tour Velvet Grips are the most popular golf grips in pro golf but the big problems with them for amateur golfers are that they are expensive and have really bad longevity. They get very slick when worn and it doesn’t take long for them to get worn. Tour players on the big tours dont’t have to pay for them and can have their clubs regripped as often as they want.
GPTV are great grips if you are rich but since they get very worn very quickly I do not recommend them. Even if you are rich, you will have to get them replaced regularly which is time and hassle especially if you are on the receiving end of a bad regrip job. Lamkin Crossline grips used to have excellent longevity but then they unfortunately changed them to a new synthetic rubber compound which I don’t think are as good as the old ones and are worse for longevity. The old model had this rough texture on them which held up over lots of years without the grips needing replaced. The new model does not have that same texture. The current version of Lamkin Crossline Black grips are good though. I think you’ll get much longer out of those than the new Lamkin Crossline. Golf grips with a rough texture are much better for longevity (like the old lamkin crossline grips or current golf pride tour velvet 360 black grips. You’ll get longer out of them for sure than golf pride tour velvet).
Karma black or blue velour ‘lamkin crossline black’ style golf grips are true to size, cheap and I think good quality so I recommend them. However, some people on online reviews were saying black ink was coming off on their hands or glove but I didn’t notice that with any karma grips I bought. The Karma logos are also slightly too high up the grips for my liking so if you are someone who ever grips down then you will feel the logo under your right thumb but you could put the grips on logos down which will help with that. I only recommend buying Karma grips if they are less than £3.25 per grip. The main issue with those grips are that the standard and undersize grips do not say standard or undersize on them (years ago when I used to buy them) so the seller could send you out the wrong size and you can’t prove it. I think the midsize and Jumbo grips say midsize and Jumbo on them from memory but I’m not sure.
I can’t remember if Champkey grips are true to size or not but I think they are but I really liked their MCS grips (their similar version of Golf Pride MCC+4) but Champkey’s version are a little bit firmer than Golf Pride but less than half the price. I bought the Champkey victory grips as well (similar to GP MCC) but they were nowhere near as good as the MCS grips in terms of quality in my opinion.
At the time of writing this you can buy 13 of the grips for £49.99 on a site owned by JB which comes with grip tapes, knife and solvent but I only tried to use the grip tapes which were very very sticky so you have to use a lot of solvent or you risk getting grips only half on. If that happens you will have to cut them off. I used the cheapest grip tape rolls that I bought from Gamola Golf. They were very good. Sticky but not too sticky.
‘MrShortGame Golf’ on YT really liked Champkey’s ‘premium rubber golf grips’ but some golfers might not like them because of the design of them. They have different textures on different parts of the grips if you do a google search for them.
When I regripped clubs, I would end up getting some grip solvent on the shafts and clubheads because I would inevitably get some onto my hands. I started wearing vinyl gloves because an issue with Brampton HF 100 grip solvent is that the solvent is a bit greasy/ soapy so if you get any on your hands or gloves and then you touch the grips, shafts or clubheads afterwards. (You need to put the gloves on after peeling old grip tape off). The HF100 solvent contains some of the same stuff that’s in dish soap/ washing up liquid so you will make your grips and clubs feel a bit soapy even if you wipe it off so I used to leave a club to dry against the wall after regripping but place the clubhead on some cardboard etc to stop carpet or the floor from getting soapy or any grip solvent on it, then wait at least 24 hours and then rinse the whole club and then dry thoroughly with a towel (grip, shaft and clubhead) to avoid rusting. Then I would leave the club against the wall again for at least 24 hours to be properly safe but you could put clubs into your bag at that time.
Before rinsing a club, I would put a tee into the end of the grip first (plastic ones are best- plastic ones for irons on par 3’s that allow you tee it up at the same height each time are good- right thickness). This stops water getting into the shaft and causing rusting.
(I tested this with a new lamkin crossline black grip. I put the plastic tee in the end of the grip and filled the grip with water. No water leaked out the end.)
This is the same thing you need to do when cleaning golf grips with water and a face cloth and/or a ‘smokers’ toothbrush which are good for brushing grips because they have longer, firmer bristles but it’s still a nice compact brush that’s easy to brush grips with. You can use them for clubfaces as well but a normal cheap toothbrush will do the job with cleaning grooves with water.
When rinsing the whole club, there can be an issue if you get water onto the ferrules or on the shafts near the ferrules. Particularly warm or hot water so I would use cold or barely luke warm. Epoxy or glue from under the ferrules can leak. TaylorMade are the worst for that (whatever they use compared to other brands). Water can get under the ferrules and cause rusting or epoxy/ glue leakage but irons are built to handle that. If you play in the rain, that’s hard to avoid. Water is going to get under the ferrules. So what I would do is rinse the whole club under an outside tap two different ways:
First way- hold clubhead and place shaft under the water near the ferrule (to keep water off the ferrule) so that the water runs down the shaft onto the grip.
Second way- hold grip and place clubhead under the tap and try and keep water off the ferrule.
Then for the ferrules and the shaft next to the ferrule, wet a sponge scourer (cheap 5p ones at asda are good). Squeeze it out a bit and go over the ferrule part of the club and shaft with the sponge scourer to minimise any water getting under ferrule. Or do the same thing with a facecloth.
The alternative way is to rinse the club with a bucket of water (£1 buckets from B&Q are good) as if you were just cleaning the whole club as mentioned below.
The only potential performance issue with shaft rusting is that the clubhead can separate from the shaft but only if the rusting is really really bad. That’s only happened to me once when playing golf regularly for 20 odd years (I don’t play golf anymore) and it was with a 10+ year old iron with significant shaft rusting and pitting. It even happened to Rory McIlroy one time but that was likely due to the number of balls he hits and his clubhead speed. Not shaft rusting. Do a youTube search for ‘McIlroy’s club head goes FLYING down the fairway!’ At least one of his playing partners had said he’s never seen that before. It’s very rare.
When I clean clubs, I don’t like using any dish soap etc because you get the same issue when regripping clubs without rinsing. Unless you are very very thorough with the rinsing, you will leave the clubs and grips feeling soapy. Water is all you need. I use a £1 bucket from B&Q and a cheap sponge scourer to clean the shaft and clubhead/ clubface and to take off any sticky residue from shafts or just to clean them. Just remember to put a tee into the end of the grip before dunking it into the bucket. Wooden ones are too thick which is why I use the plastic ones designed for irons on par 3’s/
When cleaning the ferrules (if they are dirty or sticky etc), wet a sponge scourer. Squeeze it out a bit and go over the ferrule part of the club with the sponge scourer to minimise any water getting under ferrule.
A sponge scourer will also take off rust specs on steel shafts but that just visually makes the shafts look better. Rusting leads to pitting (tiny holes in the chrome layer of the shaft which if it gets really bad leads to holes in the shaft). Scrubbing too hard will lead to scores on the shafts (more so with graphite than steel) but I don’t think that will damage shafts unless you scrub very hard. You may need to do to remove tape residue. (Some online sellers including business sellers use tape directly on clubs to secure irons together inside box, leaving a sticky mess when removed. Even masking tape can do that).
The only performance issue I know of with rusting or pitting on shafts is if it causes the clubhead to separate from the shaft as mentioned.
I then use a 12.5p toothbrush from Sainsbury’s to clean the grooves but the smoker’s harder bristled brush may be better/ gets the job done slightly quicker but costs more. The smoker’s toothbrush has longer bristles than a normal toothbrush but the cheap toothbrush does the job. The smokers toothbrush is good for cleaning golf grips along with water. You can also use a face cloth;(40p at Asda).
I advise to make sure that you dry clubheads, clubfaces, shafts (and grips) thoroughly with a towel afterwards to avoid the rusting (and to keep the re-sale value as high as possible if you ever sell your clubs in the future). Then I advise storing your clubs in a dry room of your house. Not your garage. Particularly over winter time if you are not using them for ages. This is more so if you live in the UK or Ireland. Any moist air in your garage can make your golf clubs rust.