Choose an area with heavy, well-draining soil that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. Remove weeds, large rocks, and litter from the planting area. Leave small weeds and dead grass, they will enrich the soil when turned under. Spade or till the soil 8-12 inches deep. Loosening the soil will help the plant establish strong roots.
Plants grow best in soil with lots of organic matter. You may optionally add fertilizer or organic material such as compost, leaves, or rotted hay to mix into the soil at this point. For small gardens, scatter 2-3 tablespoons of a low-nitrogen fertilizer evenly and work into the top 2-3 inches of soil for each hill or 2 foot by 2 foot planting area. For larger gardens, scatter 2-3 pounds of a low-nitrogen fertilizer for each 100 square feet of planting area. Work fertilizer or organic material into the soil and leave the surface smooth.
Form rows of soil beds 4-6 inches high and at least 3 feet apart. This formation of ridges will help with drainage.
| Planting Depth: | 1 inch |
| Within-Row Spacing: | 3 feet, stake |
| Between-Row Spacing: | 3-4 feet |
Watering: Water the plants deeply, soaking the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches, once a week. If there is no rainfall, water 2-3 times a week. Water especially during flowering and pod formation. Sandy soils may need to be watered more often than heavy clay soils. Mulching around plants can help retain moisture.
Weeding: Keeping plants weed-free improves production. If plowing or hoeing, do not dig deeper than 1 inch to prevent from cutting the feeder roots.
Fertilizing: Once plants start forming pods, you may optionally apply 2 tablespoons of a low-nitrogen fertilizer around each hole, or 1-2 pounds per 100 square feet, without letting the fertilizer touch the plants. Water plants after fertilizing.
Insecticides: Insecticides may be used to protect plants. Bt-based insecticides and sulfur are organic options that can be used for prevention. Sulfur also has fungicidal properties and helps in controlling many diseases. Before using a pesticide, read the label and follow cautions, warnings and directions.
Diseases: If spots or mold appear, treat plants with an approved fungicide. Neem oil, sulfur, and other fungicides may be used. When using fungicides always follow label directions.
Romano Beans can be harvested when the pods are 8-10 inches long, firm, well-filled, and still tender, and the beans start to bulge in pods, but before they become too mature and tough, about 55-65 days after planting. For the best flavor and texture, harvest Romano beans when they are young and the seeds inside have not yet fully developed. The beans should be bright green and crisp, and the pods should snap easily when bent. To harvest, gently pick the beans by hand or use garden shears to cut the stem, leaving the pod intact. Be sure to harvest regularly, as this encourages the plant to continue producing more beans. If beans are left too long on the plant, they can become tough and stringy. Romano beans can be eaten fresh, frozen for later use, or preserved through canning.