Pattern Making: Drafting 1930s Lingerie, Blouses, Skirts and Sportswear Fashion
by Gertrude Mason, edited by Bramcost Publications


Book Details

 

Originally published in 1937, this rare book teaches two essential aspects of pattern making: drafting drawn-to-measure patterns (flat pattern making), where garments are created from foundation patterns drafted directly from body measurements, and adjusting commercial patterns to fit the differences between your own body and standard “stock size” patterns.

Drawn-to-measure patterns use your own body measurements, allowing individual proportions and irregularities to be accounted for when making garments. The author begins by teaching how to properly measure the body and then introduces the fundamental principles of pattern drafting through a series of simple garments and small modifications — making this an excellent guide for beginning pattern makers and home dressmakers.

You begin with simple drafting projects including:

From there, the book progresses into drafting foundation pattern types — including the magyar, bodice, one-piece, knicker, petticoat and skirt foundations. Once these basic pattern blocks are created, they can be adapted and combined to produce a wide variety of garments.

Using these foundation patterns, the book provides instructions for drafting many different garments, including:

The author also explains how to alter commercial sewing patterns, demonstrating techniques such as lengthening or shortening patterns, adjusting shoulder lines using dart-style pleats, and modifying necklines for a better fit.

Additional instruction covers testing paper patterns by trying them on, preparing and folding fabric for cutting, planning pattern layouts, and other essential dressmaking techniques.

This unique pattern-making book includes instructions for garments not commonly found in many 1930s sewing books — including trouser skirts, trouser pajamas, brassieres, and a smock overall that may be used as a maternity frock.

Many fashion trends of the 1930s are reflected throughout the book. Suntanning became fashionable during this decade, and the author includes patterns for sunbathing tops, sundresses, and backless nightgowns designed to highlight sun-bronzed skin.

Gertrude Mason was an instructor of dressmaking, coat making, and tailoring, and she structured this book as a clear teaching guide to her pattern-making method. Each chapter builds upon the previous one, allowing the reader to gradually develop the skills needed to draft patterns and adapt them to changing fashions.

More than 70 different garments can be created using the instructions in this book, with many more possible by combining and modifying the foundation patterns.

Please see images for the book’s contents pages and examples of garments that can be created using these instructions. Be sure to check our other listings for more vintage sewing and fashion books. 

About Bramcost Publications

Bramcost specializes in preserving rare and out-of-print vintage lifestyle books and patterns, focusing on how our foremothers and forefathers lived, worked, and created. Our catalog emphasizes:

Please see our other listings for additional titles in vintage beauty, fashion, entertainment, needlework, and domestic arts.