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⚠️ FITMENT — PLEASE VERIFY BEFORE PURCHASE

Q: Will this alternator fit my car?

A: This alternator fits ONLY the specific vehicles in the compatibility chart. Match by OE part number on your original alternator — not just by year/make/model.
⚠️ Same vehicle can use different alternators depending on engine size (2.4L vs 3.5L), trim level (Base vs Limited), or production split.

Q: How do I confirm the right alternator?

A: Check these three things on your old alternator:
① OE part number — stamped on the alternator housing (must match exactly)
② Amperage — common ratings: 70A, 90A, 105A, 130A, 150A. Higher is OK, lower is NOT
③ Connector type — oval 2-pin, oval 3-pin, rectangular 4-pin, etc. Must match your harness

Q: The electrical connector doesn't match my wiring harness?

A: Do NOT cut or splice. If the connector doesn't plug in directly, this alternator is NOT compatible with your vehicle. Using the wrong connector can damage the alternator regulator, ECU, or cause a fire.

Q: The pulley looks different from my original?

A: Some applications use different pulley sizes or types (solid vs. one-way clutch / OAD decoupler). You can usually swap your original pulley onto the new alternator if the shaft diameter is the same. A different pulley size will not affect electrical output — but it WILL affect belt fitment.

🔋 BEFORE YOU REPLACE — DIAGNOSE CORRECTLY

Q: Battery light is on — is it definitely the alternator?

A: Not always. The battery warning light can be triggered by:
① Failed alternator — most common cause
② Loose or worn serpentine belt — slipping belt = no charging. Check tension first
③ Blown alternator fuse / fusible link — check under-hood fuse box
④ Bad battery — a battery with a dead cell will not hold charge, making it look like the alternator failed
⑤ Corroded battery terminals or ground strap — clean all connections first
⑥ Faulty ECU / PCM — on newer vehicles, the computer controls alternator output
→ Quick test: With engine running, measure voltage at battery terminals. Should be 13.8–14.8V. If below 13.5V, alternator is not charging. If above 15V, regulator is overcharging (will boil battery).

Q: Car died while driving — is it the alternator?

A: If your car stalls while driving and won't restart, the alternator is a likely cause. Here's what happens: alternator stops charging → car runs on battery alone → battery drains (usually 10-30 minutes) → engine loses power and stalls. Charge the battery fully, start the car, and test alternator output immediately — if below 13.8V, replace the alternator.

Q: I installed the alternator but the battery light is still on?

A: Don't assume the new alternator is faulty. Check these first:
① Battery voltage before installation — a dead battery will prevent the alternator from exciting (some alternators need 9V+ to start charging)
② Alternator fuse — a blown fuse will prevent charging even with a brand new alternator
③ Wiring harness — check the plug is fully seated, no bent pins, no broken wires at the connector
④ Ground connection — alternator grounds through its mounting bracket. Paint, rust, or loose bolts = poor ground = no charging
→ Any auto parts store will test your charging system for FREE — take advantage of this before requesting a return.

Q: Battery keeps dying overnight — is it the alternator?

A: Probably NOT. A parasitic battery drain (something staying on when the car is off) drains the battery overnight. A bad alternator diode can also cause a slow drain. Test: Disconnect alternator main wire overnight. If battery still dies, the problem is elsewhere (interior light, aftermarket radio, etc.).

Q: I smell something burning after installing the alternator?

A: Shut off engine immediately. This usually means:
• Battery connected backwards (even momentarily) — will fry the rectifier instantly
• Output wire touching ground/engine block — dead short
• Serpentine belt rubbing instead of spinning — misrouted or wrong belt