🛠 1 Custom-Designed Window Regulator Bushing 🛠

💰 Discounts for 2, 3, and 4 Bushings 💰

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This listing is for a custom-made replacement bushing designed for vehicles that use a scissor-style, cross-arm, or V-slide window regulator. If your window is slow, crooked, binding, or drops into the door, the plastic bushing or roller is almost always the failed part.

Manufacturers usually do not sell these bushings separately, and most aftermarket regulators use thin arms and weak plastic sliders that fail fast or arrive cracked.

A custom-made bushing lets you keep your stronger OEM regulator and repair the real failure point. I can build your part from measurements and photos, or you can mail me the broken bushing for exact duplication. No extra charge for size adjustments or custom design.

Not sure what you need? Message me before purchasing.

(Listed by brand. Years are approximate. Final fitment is always based on your measurements and photos.)

These brands used scissor-style window regulators with sliding plastic rollers or bushings before switching to cable regulators. These ranges are approximate and not an exhaustive list. Many vehicles outside these years can still use scissor-style regulators, so sending measurements or photos is the best way to confirm fit.

• Acura – mid 1980s to early 2000s
• Audi – late 1970s to early 2000s
• BMW – late 1970s to early 2000s (includes E30, E36)
• Buick – 1980s to early 2000s
• Chevrolet / GMC – 1970s to early 2000s (including S10, Blazer, Silverado and similar)
• Chrysler – 1980s to early 2000s
• Dodge – 1980s to early 2000s
• Ford – 1970s to early 2000s (including Ranger and F-Series trucks)
• Honda – early 1980s to mid 2000s (Civic, Accord and others)
• Hyundai – late 1980s to mid 2000s
• Isuzu – 1980s to early 2000s
• Jeep – late 1980s to early 2000s (XJ, MJ, YJ, TJ, ZJ and similar)
• Kia – 1990s to mid 2000s
• Lexus – early 1990s to early 2000s
• Mazda – 1980s to early 2000s
• Mercedes-Benz – 1970s to early 2000s
• Mitsubishi – 1980s to early 2000s
• Nissan – late 1970s to mid 2000s (Pathfinder, Hardbody, Frontier, Maxima, Altima and others)
• Oldsmobile – 1980s to early 2000s
• Pontiac – 1980s to early 2000s
• Subaru – 1980s to early 2010s (Legacy, Outback, Forester, Impreza and others)
• Suzuki – 1980s to early 2000s
• Toyota – 1970s to mid 2000s (Camry, Corolla, 4Runner, Tacoma and others)
• Volkswagen – 1970s to early 2000s (Golf/Jetta Mk2–Mk3, early Passat and others)
• Volvo – 1970s to early 2000s

If your vehicle uses a metal scissor arm with a sliding channel and a plastic roller or bushing, I can build a replacement that matches your original part based on your measurements.

📩 After Purchase, Please Send:

1. Vehicle make, model, and year

2. If you have the broken bushing:

• Outer Diameter
• Top Lip Diameter
• Inner Diameter (tightest point)
• Internal Sphere Diameter
• Height (main body)
• Height (including lip)

3. A clear photo of the bushing
(You may also mail it to me for exact reproduction.)

4. If the bushing is missing, please provide:

• Window rail or channel height
• Window rail or channel depth
• Diameter of the regulator button
• Height or length of the regulator button

🔧 Why Choose a Custom Bushing?

• Fixes the actual failure point instead of replacing a good regulator or motor.
• OEM regulators are stronger than cheap aftermarket replacements.
• PETG is more durable than most factory plastics and resists heat and grease.
• Lower cost and less waste by replacing only the failed component.
• Built specifically for your vehicle instead of a generic close enough part.

🛠 Generic Installation Overview

Works for most scissor-style, cross-arm, and V-slide regulators.

• Lower the window to about 90 percent down.
• Remove the bolts or nuts holding the rail to the regulator.
• Remove the rail and bend the retaining tab if present.
• Clear out broken bushing pieces.
• Press your new bushing onto the regulator arm with channel locks.
• Slide the rail back onto the bushing and check smooth movement.
• Bend the retaining tab back if your regulator uses one.
• Grease the rail to reduce friction.
• Reattach the window and align it.
• Test for smooth operation.