[Wheel Bearing Hub Specifications]
| Quantity | 1Pc |
| Position | Rear |
| ABS Included | No |
| Flange Bolt Hole Quantity | 4 |
| Wheel Stud Quantity | 5 |
[Compatible with the Following Vehicles]
For Lexus ES300 1992-2001
For Lexus RX300 1999-2003
For Toyota Avalon 1995-2004
For Toyota Camry 1992-2001
For Toyota Solara 1999-2003
[Product Features]
Responsible for attaching the wheel to the car, a wheel hub assembly is a pre-assembled unit that features precision bearings, seals and sensors. Also called a wheel hub bearing, hub assembly, wheel hub unit or hub and bearing assembly, the wheel hub assembly is a crucial part of your steering system contributing to the safe steering and handling of your vehicle.
1. Long life, high temperature bearing design.
2. Sealed design with high temperature grease.
3. Machined to exact tolerances for long lasting operation.
[Causes of Defective Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly]
In most cases, it is not the wheel hub that actually turns bad. The bearings in the hub usually go bad due to age and accumulation of debris. A common symptom of bad wheel bearings is when your vehicle lists to one side while driving. As the wheel hub actually keeps your wheels intact, any fault in the hub and its associated components will result in wandering wheels and irregular wear on your tires. While rounding a sharp turn, if you hear a whirring or squealing noise from the wheel, it is likely that your wheel hub needs attention. As the ABS sensor is a part of your hub, it can also fail and light up the ABS sensor indicator in your vehicle's dashboard.
[Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing a Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly]
1. Safely lift and secure the vehicle: Use a floor jack to raise the corner, then support it with jack stands. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
2. Remove the wheel: Loosen lug nuts before lifting, then fully remove them once the car is elevated.
3. Detach the brake caliper and rotor: Hang the caliper with a wire or bungee to avoid straining the brake hose.
4. Disconnect the ABS sensor wiring harness (if equipped): Prevents damage during removal.
5. Remove the axle nut: This large center nut often requires an impact wrench or breaker bar due to high torque (typically 180–300 ft-lbs).
6. Unbolt the hub assembly from the steering knuckle: Usually held by 2–4 bolts. Penetrating oil helps if they’re rusted.
7. Pull out the old hub: On some models, it may be tight; gentle tapping with a rubber mallet can help.
8. Install the new hub: Align it properly and hand-start all bolts to avoid cross-threading.
9. Reinstall the axle and tighten the axle nut: Torque to manufacturer specification (often done after lowering the car to prevent bearing preload).
10. Reattach brakes, reconnect ABS, remount wheel, and torque lug nuts in a star pattern to spec.
11. After replacement, take a short test drive to verify no noises return and check for warning lights. Some systems may require recalibration via scan tool, though most do not.
[Common Mistakes to Avoid During Replacement]
Not torquing the axle nut correctly: Too loose risks hub detachment; too tight damages the bearing internals.
Reusing old hardware: Mounting bolts and axle nuts are often torque-to-yield and should be replaced.
Forgetting to disconnect the battery or reset ABS: Can trigger false error codes.
Improper wheel reinstallation: Lug nuts must be torqued in a crisscross pattern to prevent warping.
Using incorrect tools: Attempting removal with undersized sockets or cheap breakers can strip bolts.
