• Can be used as a car battery kill switch, battery isolation, and more
• Applications include race cars, show cars, seasonal vehicles, campers, etc.
• 3/8-inch copper studs with brass hardware for highest conductivity
• Uses 3/4-inch mounting hole and fits panels up to 3/16-inch thick
• Positive locking detent switch with labeled on/off high visibility red handle
• Used in racing, kit car building, or any vehicle you wish to isolate the battery from
• Shuts down all electrical systems when used as an emergency disconnect
• Prevents battery drain from parasitic loss when used as an isolation switch
• Supports 1,000 amps instantaneous and 180 amps continuous

Protect Your Ride with An Easy to Install Battery Disconnect Switch

Our two-post battery disconnect switch is the perfect solution for quick and easy separation of your vehicle’s battery from the rest of the electrical system. With one quick rotation of the easily spotted red safety lever the battery cutoff switch does its job of isolating the battery from every circuit in the vehicle. This is exactly what track safety officials are looking for on any race car in any racing sanctioning body (read your rule book to determine best mounting location).

While popular for racing use as a car battery kill switch, our two-post disconnect switch can be used for any road going vehicle as a security measure. Mount the switch in a secure location like your trunk and turn the battery switch off when you leave your ride unattended. Now your vehicle is completely “dead”, and they can’t start it. From kit cars and replica builds to rat rods and more, it is the perfect answer, and you may even be eligible for an insurance discount! These switches are perfect for isolating your battery from anything that can drain it during long term storage (EFI systems, car audio, and more) and are popular in applications with multiple batteries, making it perfect as a RV battery disconnect switch.

Should A Battery Disconnect Be on Positive or Negative?

The answer lies in your racing sanctioning body’s rule book as to whether the battery disconnect should break the positive or negative battery cable. Our choice will always be the battery switch breaking the negative cable for street use, but obviously you must go by what your racing body states how they want it wired. For example, the NHRA wants the battery shut off switch mounted at the rear of the vehicle for external access by track safety crew and break the positive cable. So be sure to follow your rule book if you’re using this two-post switch in a race vehicle.

For vehicles with alternator charging systems, or sensitive electronics that can be damaged by breaking the battery to vehicle electrical systems with the car running, we recommend our Four-Post Battery Disconnect Switch that provides a safe way to wire in your vehicle’s charging system while still using a battery disconnect device effectively.

Installation requires a single 3/4-inch hole in your dash panel or other suitable location up to 3/16-inch thick. For roll bar or custom installation, we do offer an 11-gauge battery cut off switch Battery Cut Off Switch Mounting Bracket that can be welded, riveted, or bolted to your vehicle’s structure. The solid copper 3/8-inch electrical terminals on our battery shut off switch accept standard 3/8-inch ID battery cable terminals. We offer 2-Gauge Battery Terminals and 1/0-Gauge Battery Terminals to build your battery cables and connect your battery isolation switch into your electrical system. We also highly recommend covering the completed connections with a pair of Battery Cable Protective Boot for additional security.

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Vehicles with alternators should use Four-Post Battery Disconnect Switch switch instead