When it comes to maintaining the safety and performance of your classic Volkswagen''s braking system, the EMPI Dual Circuit Brake Reservoir stands out as a premier upgrade or replacement part. Designed specifically for the 1967 and later Type 1 Beetle, this reservoir eliminates the common headaches associated with remote-mounted fluid bottles. By mounting directly onto your dual-circuit master cylinder, it removes the need for expensive blue brake hoses, plastic fittings, and extra clamps that are prone to leaking or "sweating" over time. This streamlined design not only simplifies your trunk area but also provides a more immediate and reliable fluid supply to the master cylinder, ensuring that your dual-circuit safety system functions exactly as Volkswagen intended. Whether you are restoring a showroom-quality Bug or building a rugged weekend cruiser, this reservoir provides the professional finish and technical reliability required for modern driving conditions.
This reservoir is particularly favored by the off-road and custom VW community, especially those building Dune Buggies, Sand Rails, and Woods Buggies. In these custom applications, space is often at a premium and every extra hose is a potential failure point on the trail. By utilizing a direct-mount reservoir, you create a compact, self-contained braking unit that is much easier to service and significantly less vulnerable to external damage. The high-impact, translucent plastic construction allows for quick visual fluid level checks at a glance, while the included threaded cap ensures a tight seal against moisture and contaminants. Upgrading to this EMPI unit is a smart move for anyone looking to modernize their 1967-1979 Beetle''s braking setup while maintaining a clean, professional aesthetic that mimics high-performance racing configurations.
This Dual Circuit Brake Reservoir is designed for direct-mount applications on 1967 and later Volkswagens equipped with a dual-circuit master cylinder. Please verify your master cylinder port spacing before ordering.
Built to exacting standards, this reservoir is engineered for durability and ease of maintenance in the harsh environment of an air-cooled engine bay or front trunk.
1. Inspect Your Master Cylinder Grommets
When installing a direct-mount reservoir, the seal is only as good as the rubber grommets sitting in the master cylinder. This reservoir does not typically include the rubber grommets that stay in the master cylinder body. Before you press the new reservoir into place, inspect your existing grommets for cracks, dry rot, or loss of elasticity. If they are hard or brittle, they will leak. We strongly recommend installing a fresh set of master cylinder grommets at the same time to ensure a leak-free, pressurized seal. A small amount of clean brake fluid can be used as a lubricant to help the reservoir nipples slide into the grommets without tearing the rubber.
2. Check for Fuel Tank Clearance
On stock 1967-1977 Standard Beetles, the space between the master cylinder and the bottom of the fuel tank is extremely tight. While this reservoir is designed to fit, some aftermarket fuel tanks or modified bodies might have slight clearance issues. Always "dry fit" the reservoir before filling it with fluid. If you find the reservoir is touching the fuel tank, you may need to slightly shim the master cylinder or ensure your body-to-chassis pads are not overly compressed. For Dune Buggies and Sand Rails, this is rarely an issue as the master cylinder is usually out in the open, making this the ideal "clean" mounting solution.
3. Prevent Air Traps During Filling
Because this reservoir mounts directly on top of the master cylinder, it is highly efficient at gravity-feeding the bores. However, when you first fill the unit, air can sometimes get trapped in the master cylinder piston area. After filling the reservoir, gently pump the brake pedal by hand (not all the way to the floor if the master cylinder is old, as this can damage the seals) to help "burp" the air bubbles up into the reservoir. You should see small bubbles rising through the fluid. Once the bubbles stop, proceed with your standard brake bleeding sequence starting from the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (usually the passenger rear).