"Antonio Berardi didn't get the memo about rigour and restraint. For fall—his second season in Paris—he sent out a collection of peaked-shoulder, nipped-waist jackets, pencil skirts, and clingy sheaths that was blatantly about sex. Many of the pieces came with their inner workings exposed: A bustier peeked out above the bodice of an hourglass flannel dress, and corsetry details were inset on the back of a fitted coat. And those were just the beginning of the often overwrought decorations. A cloud of black rosettes—like a corsage on steroids—clung to one arm of a dress, an evening gown's worth of crystals lined the edge of a cobalt cardigan in a heavy-gauge cashmere; that same daytime yarn—this time in acid yellow—was knit into a strapless minidress.
Of course, it's not Berardi's fault that the fashion pendulum has swung in the opposite direction, and there's certainly still an audience for his brand of overt sexiness. However, many of the items he showed today—the sheer hose studded along the back seams, not to mention the role-playing props such as secretary glasses and nurse caps—would be better left in the bedroom."
Berardi is known for his sensual, figure-hugging dresses and a striking, classical, dressed-up style featuring advanced fabrics and manufacturing techniques. He has named music, independent film, post-modern art, Catholic symbolism, Italian art and culture, urban street style, lingerie and the female form as his design influences.
He designed a black-and white trompe-l'œil corset dress with lace detailing, which was named Dress of the Year in 2009 by Harper's Bazaar magazine. Gwyneth Paltrow wore the dress in November 2008 at the premiere of the film Two Lovers.
Berardi has shown his collections during the fashion weeks of London, Milan and Paris.
*Additional runway photos included to reference fit only.